hmmm, you know i have some 1600 4.5 inchers and spare hubbies in my shed.... i think i'll look into that

When it comes to wheels & tyres while trying to make it look stock but tidy, see if you can get a set of steel 13" wheels from a Stanza. These are 4-1/2" wide & should take 175x65x13 tyres without problems.

With a set of suitable wheel covers these will not draw the heat while still providing an excelent degree of safety & roadholding for a near to stock workhorse.
They look the part, & you should be able to get the rims for next to sh1te & the tyres should be cheap too. Save them shekels for the 1600.
Once again, just a suggestion.

good point.

no distractions, i'm sure the sr20det and bolt ons should satisfy at least most of my go fast hunger :)

a12 it is. and of course lower and some pie tins

Quote:
By all means, pick up the A14 for 'later' but use the 1200 engine to get you back on the street quickly & economicly. After all, you did say that this was to be a daily driver.

I would suggest that you later-on build the car up to the A14 swap with improved brakes etc, but just get it back into service for now & don't let it become yet another project to distract you from the 1600. You can do this one later & there are things about the big engines in B10's that involve more work than later models.
Example? The 1000's light H145 rear end is the narrowest of the small Datsuns, so the 1200 Ute rear axle assembly is not a good swap without narrowing, which involves time & cost that simply drags the whole project out, & the trans tunnel is a snug fit around a 56 series box, so the whole damn thing grows like topsy & this takes the daily driver out of action for a while.

Use the 1200 engine for now.
Well, thats my two bob's worth.

P.S. The A14/15 blocks are even taller again than the 1200, so to avoid bonnet clearance problems, you will probably need to fit sidedraught induction. Gee, that'll be hard to live with. Life's a bitch.

i dont think i would go puting the a10 gearbox behind the a14 though if you want it to last
dont forget its not real hard to upgrade brakes

go the a14
the question is are you to fast for the brakes

thanks for all the info DM.

just to throw a quick one out there...

i was talking to 1200rc today and he has an a14 spare for just such an application... more hassle and too fast for the brakes? worth a look or just stick with the a12?

cheers
photos are up!

Quote:
I have seen the spiggot shaft shortened with an oxy torch, then trimmed with a grinder, or just use a grinding wheel to cut it off.
I forget how much needs to come off, but if you have a 1200 box handy, then just measure its spiggot length & shorten the 1000 box to match.
Yes, it can be done 'in situ'

Incidentally, the ute gearbox is different to the 1200 passenger models. It has a proper ball bearing to support the front of the cluster, while the regular ones use a closed end Torrington roller race, & this light duty bearing is just fine for regular use, but the ute box is 'heavy duty' This gearbox case [bellhousing] was also used for the competition departments four speed 'Option 1 & Option 2' gearbox's as well as the GX5's five speed box & the competition 'option 1' version of it.

Use the bolt-on engine mount lugs from the A10 & the 1200 engine just drops right in. If the engine mount rubbers are crook & the engine sags a little, you might have some slight clearance issues with the sump at the crossmember, but I always used the 1000 sump & good mounts & never had a problem.

The best way around the altenator situation is to simply unbolt the whole altenator & its mounting bracket from the 1200 block, then do the same with the A10 unit. One of them uses studs, so just double nut these & they come right out. Simply install the whole thing onto the 1200 block exactly like it was on the A10 & everything will be just hunkey dory. I think that at least one of these holes goes into the crankcase, so a little sealant on the threads will prevent an oil leak.
[P.S. I never ever had a 1200 altenator, which is the real reason I went this way, but if the 1200 one has the right electrical plug, then give it a try.]

The original Hitachi LT125.02 altenator produces a huge 24 amps, but I ran 55/60 QH headlights through a relay on mine & never had a problem,... ever.
It will be a good idea to get the regulator's output checked if you still have the original one since these seem to go out of adjustment quite regularly every 30 years or so. Get it adjusted up to the top end of the specs & your wipers will wipe good & your lights will really shine, & that's important in the winter.

If you keep the brakes adjusted properly, they work quite well, but hot laps down steep mountain passes will cause a bit of grief. I used the original drums on my sedan with GX & 5 speed the whole time & they were fine.
Hopefully this is of some help.

Glad to hear that you have this B10. If you do this engine change right it will be a top little ride, & since even the DeLuxe 1000 two door sedan is still 65k lighter than the lightest 1200 pasenger model [the coupe] it will run even better still. You will love it & will surely become a convert.

B10, the car you always wanted. [It's no ordinary car.]

i put an a12 an to a 1000 auto the only thing i had to change was the engine mounts the old 1000 auto didnt andle the extra tourque from the mighty 1200 for long though

ratdat - cheers for that, any idea on how and by how much i shorten it?

ian - yeah i'm thinking about it. please don't tempt me!

oan - thats the one, pretty sweet car, not 'mint' tho, has a few trolley dings but will be a good little runaround

dm - i was hoping you would answer! thanks heaps for that. the motor is an early 1200 one and hoped it would fit. i knew there were issues with the gearbox. so how do i shorten the spigott? with a grinder? can it be done while the shaft is still in the box? how much by? this sounds like my quickest option.