no, it will not fix vibration. Most likely your tires need re-balancing. The smaller and lighter your tires are, the more difficult it is to get them accurately balanced. This causes vibration, usually it is most pronounced at around 40-50mph/60-80kph

I have replaced all my Ball joints, but I still have the same vibration on the wheels when I go above 60 km/h.

Will the adjustment on the steering box help for this?

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Thanks heaps

Nissan might still have them, as they are still using the same box in South Africa.

But it's easier to collect them at the wreckers, there are about 4 different shim sizes for the tube/column endfloat adjustment. Should only need one of each thickness for your collection. You can sollect them from various Datsun models.

For me, it's a mix and match affair. Collect several boxes based on my tests, loosening off the adjuster and checking for sector shaft bushes. I haven't looked for a supplier yet, because I had a good set 'in stock' from years of collecting parts.

A good steering unit will:
- not have a worn top bearing near the steering wheel..that's the sign the car has done more than 150000miles.
- not have any sideways play in the sector shaft.
- have minimal free play on the steering in the centre position, after you tighten down the lash while on full lock. This shows how much wear on the ballnut/sector shaft gear in centre position.

Glad to see the correction.

YES: you can adjust it in car. Sometimes it makes a difference. It just adusts the gear lash or something. It is not a "fix", but can improve the steering somewhat.

YES: Adjusting the gearbox lash won't help if other parts of the gearbox are worn out.

I've always adjusted my 1200s, and it has taken some of the play out of the steering wheel. However, after a while the play returns. After a few adjustments it no longer helps. That is probably where the majority of B110s are now (too far worn) although with low-mileage cars like it may still help.

Since new gearboxes are not available (neither are rebuild kits), I think the best solution will be to convert to rack-and-pinion. Chris, do you have information on where to get new bearings and shims?

When new, Reviewers liked the steering (and I agree, for the period it was quite good):Quote:Road & Track review (1970)

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I had to remove the drivers side engine mount. And remove the steering column lock and the box will come out the radiator hole in the front panel... You can break it into two pieces, and pull the steering column into the cabin, and drop the box out underneath. If you plan to rebuild it, then this isn't a problem. Once it's in two bits, you really need to pull the pitman arm and sector shaft out of the box so that it will go back together properly. Otherwise the bottom bearing for the steering column will keep falling out while you assemble it, and you won't get the ballnut/sector gear meshing with the correct teeth.

Cheers

Ok, I need to correct myself, my previous post concerning the adjustor and sector shaft preload was WRONG WRONG WRONG. Sorry.

After looking at the steering box I have that's in pieces, the adjuster 'does' adjust gear lash between the sector shaft and the ball-nut. It does this by the gear shape and the overlap betwen the two axis of the steering column and the sector shaft. The preload on the sector shaft is determine by the spacing in the washer mechanism at the top that connects to the adjuster square driver that you can see on the top side of the steering box.

The adjustment though, is fruitless if the bottom sector shaft bearings are worn.

I really think these bearings are the cause of much of the trouble we have with steering boxes. Especially when there is a lot of play when changing direction from side to side.

Cheers,
Chris

Just as a foot note I had the steering box rebuilt in my (now old) 2 door price was from memory 450 bucks and this was mates rates while in the industry
cheers ade

Dattodude can you do this with it in the car with the ca in it?