No offence to anyone Im just trying to help some fellow 1k lover to see another point rather than a go for it man "yeah you can do it!"
mad120y the real weights are as posted by Harry as I didnt believe him and went and did my weighing at EKW and Select Auto where I weighed the SR ca18, ga16 and L20 complete but without power steering pumps and air cond units. This is the reason the SR isnt a popular choice for kit cars its a porker. Many lotus 7 owners use the 3sge since it makes more in NA and boosted and weighs the same as an sr20 if not lighter. For those who dont know the 3sge is the 1000+hp engined used in pikes peak.
Lightweight gel batteries will save weight. 6kg for my odyssey one and many run the same with full electrics, injection and stereo.
A heavier stronger diff to handle the power will add another 30-40kg Sr20 bare is 40kg heavier than an a10 bare. r30 box is 40kg compared to 15-18kg for the original. Add bigger brakes and reinforcing for body flex and a rollcage and you might as well use a heavier car because youve lostl the 1k best feature. If so youve successfully made the 1k 200-250kgs heavier at 870-900kgs. The rotary 13b, ca18, 4ag and maz mx5 bp are much lighter than the sr20 fully dressed by 20kgs and most of them have a cast iron block and in a well setup sports sedan with everything stripped the 1k still weighs 860kgs. My Last mazda r100 with 13b race bridgeport came in at 860 kgs with full interior, many more features than a deluxe 1k and a mild steel 8 point cage.
The r100 was 805 from factory before the mods.
In contrast if you use lightweight parts you add to the 1ks ability.
Its been done all before to minis with heavier engines, bigger capacity and all the same stereo-typical thinking with lame results.
After all the years of stuffing up minis, many enthusiast of lotus 7s, kit cars and minis realised that using lightweight car engines (not an SR) and even motorbike engines to compliment lightweight bodies is the best way to go.
Steve Newing has done the same to every other racer with the same thinking. He was successful for almost a decade with a lighweight 1200 + 1600cc versus others with nis sr20, nis ca18,maz bp, toy 3sg, toy 4ag, nis fj20, nis L20b, isuzu g200 and mitsu 4G powered lightweight bodied u2ltr ss competitors.
Finding the best balance is essential for a successful performance combination and drivability. Steve did the same thing with the stanza coupe + ca18 they complimented each other.
My previous co-owned sandrail with g13b suzuki constanly killed bigger capacity oppostion in the same class and we had 700cc less, g13b sandrails are still the ones to beat in u2ltr class. the g13b complete is 78kg and the reason its so popular for aviation. Another little engine that with boost will be more than enough in a 1k.
The Sr is a thick sandcast block which is much heavier than the ca18 and L series its is too tall, wide and long for the 1k engine bay unless you move the firewall back and run a different crossmember or midmount it. Also all the nissan boxes will be too long unless you use the stumpy box but still too long with the longer engine. The 1200 is a better candidate as there are more around and have more space in the engine bay and avail with big auto tunnels.
For datoman 1k it wont be an issue with the midmount setup that is if the sr and stumpy with the 40-50cm longer than the A series setup is not an issue.
Just add another throw another idea in the mix with my sandrail partner weve worked out that a RWD midmount like an MR2 setup using a FWD engine and box will save alot of money in the end and weight. LSD are common for FWD and you eliminate having a tunnel, shortened diff and tailshaft. Using a Pintara SSS gearbox and L series with 12v ka24e head youd have an LSD box, L series with twin 34mm inlet valves and no pollution gear. The rollcage can incorporate the engine/box mounts and a subaru leone rear end found everywhere for the wishbone setup that pivots in longitude to avoid the running gear as in the pic below
