Can you get the filters from a standard auto parts store or do you think it has to come from a radiator shop? I'm for sure going to use one. You can never have too much protection!
Considering that I live in AZ, I'm installing AC, and eventually want to put in an A15, I want to install the biggest radiator I can fit in there.
Thanks everyone for the info.

I'll pass this along as a fellow desert dweller. Our 1200 had a total rebuilt engine (stock) and a new radiator when I went to SCCA drivers school and I ended up having to run the heater in the afternoon..........the car would get 7/8ths hot. It was late May and temps were about 104-106 range. A B210 or 210 radiator should do the trick for a stocker. I use the Nissan 3 core radiator for the 1200 and it the car runs about 220 if I buzz the full 8000 RPMs at the track........running only 7800 RPM's and the water temp goes down to 210. My experiance has been early Datsuns run hot , don't overheat but definetly in the upper end of the temp gauge.

Tom

I bought a filter from a radiator shop & it looks like a cheesecloth condom. [Do not use it for this purpose] They were available in small & large sizes & I bought the small one.
You slide it into the top tank, up the inlet fitting & fold the end over the outside of top tank's hose fitting, then slide the radiator hose over that.
In my case, there was enough material left over to fold some back over the outside of the hose, then I fitted the clamp around the whole lot.

I have pulled it out about four times in the last year & a bit, about every three to six months, & was amazed at just how much crud was trapped inside, but it was protecting my new radiator core, so I was happy.

Simply turn inside out, then wash it & reinstall. Works for me.

OH, and Curtis, since I live in one of the hotest cities in the US, I would say the more radiator the better to beat the heat, but then again... it is a dry heat!!!

Cheezcloth as a filter??? I never thought of that! Do you think that it might rip or come apart and plug up a cooling jackets or radiator tubes? What about some type of metal screen? I'm assuming you're putting this over the inlet side of the radiator, correct? You know, it makes me wonder why no-one has ever produced a coolant filter before. Thanks for the idea!

i have used a gemini one in the ute and coupe... worked a treat... trying to find a good one for the sedan.... have a 4agze one i may try but top hose points the wrong way from a plastic top tank.

a few guys use the pulsar n14 one with good results, especailly on 12a rotors...

intresting,im going to be converting my 120y a12 auto to a a14 manual soon i was going to buy a brand new radiator same as wat i got. as mine is almost stuffed will this be bigger enough??? or will i need bigger??
any ideas anyone..

I bored my 1200 block 3mm [0.120"] & drove it for about 100,000 miles, then bored it another .5mm [0.020] & drove it for another 60, or 70,000 miles & never had a problem. I'd say that your brother in law still has plenty to learn about the motor trade.

When an engine is dismantled for reconditioning, the coolant galleries dry out & the crud that has accumulated there over the years shrinks & cracks. If the welch plugs are not removed, & this stuff properly cleaned out, then a great deal of this crud comes loose in the freshly rebuilt engine & starts to circulate. Fortunately the OEM coolant filter quickly traps this foreign material to prevent it from returning to the block. This filter is better known as your radiator.

If the block is properly cleaned, the radiator serviced & cleaned & a cheezecloth [or other] filter is used in the cooling system, you will have no problems at all.

I run a stock 1200 with auto trans & my most recent problem was overcooling, but I have a new radiator core & a regularly serviced filter & I am constantly surprised at just how much rubbish it traps. A new thermostat fixed the problem for me.

Make sure that youre whole cooling system is clean & serviceable, & you too will enjoy trouble free motoring.

they dont actually overheat from boring but there is more direct thermal heal transfered from the combustion camber to the coolant and oil gallaries from my understanding... the a12 stock radiator cant cope well with heat, as most aussies know.
As with a14/a15 transplants a radiator swap to a bigger unit usually keeps it all in check.

This has always been my experience

i think i used an early nissan sentra radiator since it had a bung for an electric fan already and i had several and it was from a 1.6 liter so it's more than big enough. Then had it recored with a higher density core and added an electric fan. Also, sentras had A/C so you could get the whole thing together, with AC you will want an electric fan anyways.

another thing, factory temp gauges have weird scales, the lowest on mark might be 170 and the middle 200 deg and start of red maybe 220 or something. I'd be freaked if my engine got up to 212 ever, the temp will also vary with the ambient temp, so when it starts to get warm out you might get a 10 -15 deg increase in the temp on the road, that could put you right up to the red mark, which isn't really bad if you know what temp it's at.