i have taken some more meat of the mushroom head of the push rod, Steve the push rod was all the way back i had a little free play at the pedal, hope to give it another squirt this week to see if i have removed enough metal,

heath give the master cyl some free play you dumb ar-e that will fix it .ie shorten the push rod......

the 120y pushrod thing doesn't have the "knoby" bit on the end (but they're too long to use with the 1200 setup), if the one out of your coupe does, grind it right back so that it doesn't protude past the washer that is on it that sits into the back of the master cylinder, from memory the washer thats on the 1200 pushrod is slightly conical ??
hope that makes sense ...

do u have a picture of the 120y one? i ground some off maybe not enough?, i think the problem is more heat soak? than heavy braking, all 4 wheels stay on with brake pressure, as soon as i crack passenger side front they all release, help please (this is sh!tting me to tears)

Dont use the brakes ya big chook lmao

the plunger into the master cylinder, off the pedal, isn't returning far enough to release the pressure out of the brake lines back into the master .... can't think how to explain fixing it at the moment but you need to make the end of the pushrod look similar to a 120y one or with the original one grind some the mushroom'y bit back to sit level with the washer .... hopefully that makes a bit of sense

After heavy braking, eventually my brakes will stay on, both front and rears, only thing that isn't new are the calipers, everying else is or was brand new.
i'm running a JB1289 master 13/16, 240k 270mm rotors with 2pot sumi's and R31 rears. i have taken out the residual valve on the rear curcuit, what else can i try, the master is fully releasing when the pedal is up? any help would be good, thxs. the pedal has no travel, brake pedal is high, but pushing hard can be depressed