the nuances of the AFR as it relates to torque are hard to determine without instruments.

if you can feel the difference, then something big changed.

Am i the only one NA who has a EGT gauge? EGT is used in aircraft apps and lots of other things - perhaps the o2 sensor isn't the only tool. I'd say a good wideband 02 sensor and or EGT probe is helpful.

i'll be running a 02 labmda unit just to keep my fuel usage on the road in line. hehe then flip the switch to off :)


I suppose Color Tune is just a visual EGT monitor, the colors relate to temp/AFR ( since EGT and AFR are different sides of the same coin ) Both are valid - why did automotive settle on 02 sensors?

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Not quite sure what you mean. the Gunson's colour tune is a spark plug with a window to see the colour of combustion. Really cool, old-school kind of concept (I wish I had 4 of em and a perspex bonet ) But the AFR meter gives better precision than the gunson by a long shot.

Edit: But I am not sure about accuracy. the Gunson is accurate, by definition- blue =lean, yellow=rich but precise? hell no.

Sounds like a winner

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Are you able to calibrate the dicksmiths AFM to the one in the shop?

Got itchy feet waiting for my new carby jets to arrive, so I started swapping around the ones that were in the car last night.

The AFR meter went from showing lean at light throttle, rich at full throttle low revs, gradually leaning out through the range- then I swapped the air correctors around & now it is rich right through the range- about 12 under light throttle and rich through to 13.2 under WOT..... Obviously I need some more adjustments to get good cruise economy.

The interesting thing is that the car is no different to drive. so from all the normal backyard tuning methods- "if it stumbles go up/down a size" type statments are only getting the AFR to a level where the fuel will burn, not really getting close to a proper tune.

I checked it against the Gunson's colourtune and it picked up differences in the idle an d part throttle tune in the 13-17 range that were pretty difficult to distinguish from the colour tune

Obviously I still need to check it against a wideband sensor, but even if it's not calibrated & AFR 12 actually=13, 17=21 or whatever, at least you can see real time differences as you drive..... and if you know how much it is out by, adjust your settings accordingly.

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Good point!!- although I think evilsim was talking about fluctations on the input for the circuit messing with the base calibration of the readings rather than fluctuations from the O2 sensor input.

AFR meter

I hadnt seen this mob before- they certainly look like they are putting out a much more developed product than the Silicon Chip AFR meter I used.
Still, a fair bit more money as well.

A normal o2 sensor only uses the 12v to heat it self up. The sensor itself generates the output voltage..so it does not matter if the 12V is regulated and constant.

Grunterhunter hace you tried ........http://wbo2.com
they seem to sell some reasonably priced??? sensors

Also bosch themselves, from memory have plenty of info on their website.

The artical i saw on these things tested (and calibrated) it against one used to tune cars an the said they were very impressed with the results and would recommend it for a pretty good(not perfect or very good) tune. I think it was 'zoom'

Yeah, I would like a wideband sensor, but the budget is hundreds, not thousands. (came up @ $200 including a new O2 meter.... probably should have just got one from the wreckers)

I'm pretty sure the guage itself has a voltage regulator inbuilt into it- the electronics run at 5V and I'm pretty sure that is maintained regardless of battery voltage. I'll have to check....

Orange is about 4500 k's from here!!!

try to get your hands on a LM-1 wide band sensor! theyre sooo much better than narrow band..
ive tried using a narrow band with a lean/rich guage but i get varying results from just voltage fluctuations. how do you know what voltage it wants as a standard to work from? even with a voltage regulator, at 12v it still fluctuates and makes for an un-even playing field to even start diagnosis on... (ive given up with mine) i know someone near Orange NSW who has a LM-1. he would probably let you use it at his shop for a reasonable value. just my thoughts. goodluck with it

Got iu & running- seems to work ok, but th calibration may be out. Was showing AFR of 14-14.4 under full throttle @6000rpm whereas on the dyno it was 13.6..... but the transition from rich to lean looks pretty similar through the range.

Need to get it back onto the dyno for a direct comparison- 14 is way too lean for WOT