Doesn't so much now, getting the A15 rebuilt this week, thanks for the help tho, at least now i know what gearbox to get.
thanks ty

OK, OK, A minor faux pas, I will edit my previous post to correct the shift pattern with the 'A' & 'L' gearboxes.

The way I believed it to be was when the last character was 'L' it refered to the long [standard length] extention housing while an 'S' in the last character position refered to a short housing, usually seen on the 'R' [remote/column shift] gearboxes.
I thought that the suffix 'A' was used in the days before short extention housings, so no identifier was needed & the 'A' simply signified the first version of the 60 series design.

Feral did a thorough & comprehensive thread on gearbox ID & I'm sure that the info is in there.
I'm always learning.

F = floor shift
R = column shift

C = Close Ratio (usually, competition model)
W = Wide Ratio (normal model)

60L = dogleg shift pattern
60A = standard shift pattern

S .... hmmmm

Quote:The column shift trans is not a candidate for use in the B310 Sunny, but could be used for parts if necessary.

The factory five speeds that fit any A series engines are

F5W56A [1200 & 120Y GX option] F5C56A [Competition option] Both are direct in fifth.
F5W60L [Dogleg] F5W60A [Conventional pattern] Both are overdrive.
F5W63A [or L, I forget] [Dogleg overdrive]

As sunny-coupe110 has writen, there may be an 'S' as a second character in the code for one or both of the 60 & 63 series, but I'll be blessed if I know what it means.

None of these were sold in Australia, but a number of examples exist here & occasionally one turns up for sale, but never cheaply.

EDIT
I have a vague recolection that it might refer to a different 'type' of synchro used in gearboxes where an 'S' is used as a second character.
Feral would know.

Most aftermarket cams have greater duration on the inlet - Shold be able to tell by that......?

Should be able to get out with a protractor & check the angle between when the inlet lobe engages & re-seats.

Don't know what the standard durations are though ,

to check the cam profile I would remove the rocker cover and rocker assembly, get a hold of two dial gauges and set them up on the intake and exhaust pushrods for number 1 cylinder, then set number one piston to top dead centre now just check to see if there is any overlap on the valves and record the points when the push rods begin to move up by using a degree wheel on the end of the crank or looking at the timing cover marks for a roughish reading, also check the height at which the pushrod reaches maximum lift and record it. I don't know what the specs of a stock camshaft are unfortunately, but with the data you get from those readings you could compare it to a chart of cams from different manufacturers and check if it looks similar to any of them

No way of really telling if you have a a/m cam without pulling it out and getting it checked out!

I spose what you could do is drive a couple of mates cars with simmiler engine setups with and without cams.. if you can. I noticed at a certain RPM you could feel the cam 'kick' in with my old A12 1000 ute. and i knew that was a/m


Just about the gearboxes, can you setup a vannette linkage box with a floor shift extension housing? or doesnt it work quite like that

what about the cam, i'm not too sure if i have an aftermarket one or not, i think i do, but not sure??
ty

Pitrord
Remodeling is necessary!

The RS is the key, same gearbox, different shift mechanism. So when you say Vanette/Sunny gearbox, they are different boxes (same internals), which is it? Sunny or Vanette