Curtis, I will appreciate that...would like to see a non US version thermostat housing.

About the sensor... I am not worried about it. But if I could get a non US thermostat housing I would get rid of that bulky thermostat housing US cars have. I can always unbolt that big air valve and plug it, but it would be tidier to have a non US housing.

The front one is actually a temperature 'switch' & it ties in with the vacuum advance cutout system in manual trans models.

When the coolant temperature is below a preset value, this switch is off. This allows a relay to open & prevents the 'top gear detection switch' from cutting out vacuum to the distributor, so the vacuum advance works in all gears.

Above the pre set temperature, this switch closes & the vacuum is denied to the distributor in the intermediate gears. Once top gear is engaged, the gearbox switch kicks in & vacuum becomes available to the distributor in the usual way.

This does not inhibit maximum acceleration performance in the lower gears as quick acceleration demands full throttle operation.
At full throttle there is no vacuum anyway, so the distributor sees only mechanical advance.

If you have a dead stock model with this feature, then don't bother disabling it as no performance improvement will be gained.

The temp 'sensor', for the temp guage, is on the other side of the head.

they are both water, front is a temp sensor , rear is for an elbow so you dont have to run heater water return line under the exaust.
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there are two temp senser holes on the front (i know i have one)

ive got a strange looking therostat housing up the back that looks like that, its off a late model a12 ill go get a pic if u want.

The temp sensor is on the other side and the water outlet is in the back of the head

they are both water, front is a temp sensor , rear is for an elbow so you dont have to run heater water return line under the exaust.

BlueMax...yea....I did that with the B210 too, plugged the valve hole. I was wondering, if I could get the thermostat cover of a non US engine, I could have it sealed and look as if it was never there.....but if not posible....like you said.....a plug will work.

jaime, Just pull that fitting out. Use a 1/2 pipe plug to plug the hole. I think thats what I did 20 yrs ago on mine.

Dodgeman. Here is a picture of my previous A series engine. Here we can see the thermostat housing. Do you have a closeup look of the thermostat housing you guys have?
If I use a OZ version thermostat housing, I can get rid of the open port. I will not be using an air pump.

I think the front port is the air intake port, the rear I think it is not, the air is supposed to go in, not in and out.

If I get it right, the air is injected through a fitting in the thermostat housing. It passes along a lengthwise drilling that has access to each exhaust port. This air naturally enough contains oxygen that mixes with the searing hot flame of the exhaust & allows any unburned hydrocarbons to be consumed in the flame.
I didn't think that the two holes in the ends of the head were related to the air injection.

The only real power robbing here is the power used by the air pump, however the exhaust ports are connected within the cylinder head itself by this air passage & I wonder if it is possible to get an alloy rod, or even a thick wall alloy tube, of the right size & slip it into place. This should rectify any exhaust resonance problems that this passage might have. The thermostat housing should cover this front hole & hold the rod/tube in place.