Well fair enough then. My first ca18det only managed seventy eight (78)kW at the wheels. I was also running a 2.25 exhaust.

The base of the valve shafts was completely choked with carbon, as was the turbo. That's why it never felt fantastic. Your daily might have the same problems.

A lot of high powered engines are just well build using fairly normal parts. Finding a good engine builder is more important that buying $20k in parts, which is easy to do...

Most of my comments remain the same though. spending megabucks on many parts of the engine is just as waste of money.

at the moment my daily is a ca 18det ute stock with no cooler and 2.25 exhaust and only revs out to about 5500-6000 rpm so my aviator is the next in line but with more of the bolt on goodies i would prefer to spend money on the project than on the 1 im driving now. my project has a std low ks motor in pieces
this is what makes me want to rebuild and have it last
longer than a second hand one, but with rebuilding i want to consider performance and build it once. but all info,thoughts and ideas are appreciated cheers wayne

Most of the first mods I describe, relate to the 400hp 1.8L datsun as a daily driver. I guess with a big enough turbo/cams with lag, you can get away with driving around off boost, but it would be uninspiring to drive (just like mine). A button clutch on a daily driver makes you wish it was an automatic. The CA18 auto is as heavy as the engine almost, so don't get any ideas about that either

A healthy CA18 will rev to 8000rpm. You want it to rev out a little more?

Forged rods aren't needed unless you are going into the 'stupid power' territory about 220kW. Spend the $1000 on a girlfriend/wife instead, it'll have a better long term payoff.

Having the button clutch is to do with handling the power. I don't know of anyone who has knife edged their CA18. This is a high rev mod used by drag racers and speedway people. 40 thou over means more chance of overheating problems and engine failure under boost. Not recommended for an engine that is expected to last several years.

Get the best condition ca18det engine you can buy, and put it in the car. Drive it for 6 months, then decide if you want to spend 20k on fixing it up. Believe me, you get good at removing the engine after a while, so the extra step in your project is a good idea.

I don't want to spray water on the fire of your enthusiasm, but I don't think it's a good idea to spend megabucks on a modified CA18det, before you've driven a standard one.

thanks for your info it has shed a bit of light i was thinking of custom 40 thou dished forged
pistons and forged rods( but will look into it further). With running your cams do you have better lifters or stock? i didnt realise that lighteng the fly wheel and crank ment for a button clutch i would like for it to rev out a little more but a button clutch in a ute in the wet = hello pole i have a set of sr20det brakes to fit to it with a 120y front swaybar and will be getting a caltrack set up plus looking into better suspension. I need to find out more but looking at doing the motor within a few months cheers wayne

knife blading crank and/or light flywheels and/or 400hp (requiring a button clutch) does not make a very nice daily driver car. You'd sell it within 2 months.

With a CA18det-1200, 10sec or 11sec need slicks. 12sec or 13sec don't, 16+ quarters doesn't need tyres even

Custom pistons is a waste of time. When you burn the top out of them because of a batch of unreliable fuel, it'll cost you more to replace them. Go with replaceable stuff. Otherwise you'll hit the big bucks in engine build and assembly.

A stock bottom end with forged pistons is all that is needed. Go for 20-40thou overbore.

For the cylinder head, not much point of bigger valves, if the springs and lifters are in good condition, they aren't going to hold you back either. Getting larger cams is a good idea for drag racing. intake/exhaust 260deg 8.8mm lift (can run on stock lifters) Going too large is a bad idea due to loss of bottom end torque. I'm running 270/9.25mm.

Don't get a massive turbo either. GT28/71R is as large as I would recommend on a CA18.

Having the engine power is one thing, but getting the power to the ground and stopping the car will cost you the same again at least....

If you get the suspension and brakes wrong, you risk losing the lot into a power pole.

Get a healthy motor and put a better turbo on it. I've seen stock engines push a 1200 ute into the 11s. Go read up on the Silvia websites if you don't believe me.

just tring to find out some good combo's for the ca18det
like custom piston sizes (dished for more boost) cam sizes types of vavle springs the benifits of knife blading the crank (is it worth doing) want a streetable daily with enough to take to the 1/4 and do low 11 s or high 10s what combos are working for who? and even what to stay away from cheers wayne