ok, problem soved

It was a combination of #### in the fuel and sticking advance weights in the E15 dizzy. Cleaned out the carb today(full of ####) and cleaned the carboned up plugs and she fired up and ran nice.

So ill throw the eleccy dizzy (now with free-ed up weights) back on and tune it a little better and it should be back on the road!

The fuel pump may have been partly to blame too when it was in the engine bay!

Yay!

Yeh coupe engine loom. It did have a melted power wire from IGN switch to fuse box. But i completely replaced it, no other wires appeared to be damaged.

I just went out and had a play. Bugger all resistance everywhere. 0.5ohms ign switch to fuse box, 0.5 thru the switch. 0.5 thru the fuse box(aftermarket and new), but i think it was 2.5 from coil to switch... But that still seems acceptable to me???

But i did find something when i was studying the wiring diagram. the BW wire from the coil + / IGN also goes to the regulator... Now i have a feeling my reg is ####ed. I never had a good altinator on it, but when i did the charge rate just went thru the roof and never died off. So it wasnt regulating. I left it unplugged. Now I had to semi re-wire it to suit the late altinator position and late altinator. But it should be all good. So would a dead reg be sucking power or shorting something? The reg looks anchent too so i might get a newin tomorro anyway.

9V on your coil is not good.

Is it factory ignition wiring? If so, grab a multimeter and check the wire resistances from the coil to the ignition switch and from the ignition switch back to the fuse box.

Does your fuse box have a plastic cover? Take out your ignition fuse and measure the resistance of the clips that hold it.

I had a bitch of a time trying to find an electrical problem in my 1000 and it turned out to be rusty corroded fuse clips causing it.

Part of the problem was my lack of fusebox cover. The fusebox in the engine bay doesn't help either.

TC

Yeh but like i said it did it with the E15 elcy dizzy and again with a new points dizzy. points gap is spot on.

My old man had a look at it today when i was at work. He said there is bugger all fuel pressure and a bit of #### coming thru the line. Also my coil is only getting 9V when cranking! (non balist resist system). SO thats gonna make it hard to start! High resistance in ign switch wire??? He also said the weber is missing jets. Not surprising really... i swaped a badge for it and ive never delt with webers before.

I threw the old carb back on tonight and tried to start it, it tried once but never again. The fuel pump sounded as tho it was starved of fuel (usually shuts up when full) but the filter just before it was full of fuel. Maybe its blocked? Im stealing another from work tomorro either way. And ill check my wire resistances too.

Hmmm the old vapour lock trick.. But here we are in winter?? That usually happens in the heat of summer!!!!Forgot about that one though.. Now it won,t start!! Darn the freakn automobile can be a pain in the {whistles}. Are your points set at the correct gap and are they in good nick?? My 120 was very finnicky about that..Good luck mate hope you fix the drama soon..

yeh yeh, fuel bowl is filling up and the acc pump is pumping it down the chokes. And i have spark. IGN timing should be all good with the old points dizzy. Cam timing is right too.
I tried it again later and it tried to start a couple of times but went back to plain old tuning over. Yesterday it started straight up with the 32/36!

I might put the orig carb on tomorro... but i cant see why this weber wont work again all of a sudden.

Im bringing the comp guage home from work tomorro too... I hope that isnt the prob tho!

is the fuel pump still wired up? maybe a connection came loose?

also when you put the a series dizzy back in did you et tdc on cyl #1 spot on? if now wont start eiter real well. (dwell and timing would be well off)

This is one of those problems thats a bitch to find and will stump everyone but when you find it will be a simple thing (from my misadventures anyway).

best of luck and keep us nformed.

Ok, update!

First off i relocated the fuel pump next to the fuel tank under the floor.
Then i checked cam and ignition timing. I found that the advance weights on the E15 dizzy were sticking and 1 of the springs wasnt doing anything. so i raided a spring off a old a series dizzy and lubed it up and it works beautifully.
But it still wouldnt start! Thats right it wont even start now! I have fuel and i have spark. But it seemed a very weak spark. So i made up a A series points dizzy (new cap/rotor/points/condenser) and it seemed to beef the spark up. It tried to start once but chugged and died. Now it wont even try to start/backfire... NOTHING! Then i ran out of battery so thats why im here typing my findings.

I had it idling away for ages yesterday and free revving well, but as soon as i decided to drive it, it packed the ####s and yeh now wont even start!

And theres no oil in water/water in oil incase your thinking head gasket

the electric fuel pumps like to push not pull and sounds like a dizzy problem maybe.

I had something like that happen on my E16 b11, it made me insane for a long time, what i finally discovered was the dizzy had fallen apart inside from vibration, and for some reason it would run 5 min maybe 10 then get odd and die, then after sitting a few minutes, maybe an hour run again, repeat.

try swapping dizzys.

yes it looks like a fuel problem but that's not it ;) which is why it took me so long.