yeh I think you're right coops. I just read mine off the printout from the wheel alignment machine.

So, how do you measure the castor?

Is this just the "forward facing" angle of the strut tube?
I'd image for instance that a 3

Running wide low-profile tyres doesnt help

Damn, now this explains why my steering wanders around on highways. My castor is set to 0 deg !!

Wasted money & time changing tie-rod ends, idler arm...& tyres....
Thanks for the info guys

Interesting that for the B310, 3 degrees is within specification -- so it shouldn't hurt bushings or swaybar links. But on the other hand, 1-2/3 degree is also within spec, but for a street car you'd want the 3 degrees.

For B110, the specs are:
Caster: 1 deg 10' - 2 deg 10'

But still, several people have recommended 3 degrees for a street B110.

Sorry yeah 3

Coops, you want about as much castor as you can get. I cut the front edge of my gaurds on my old coupe to get more castor. (This was before the flares were fitted). I think I was up around 6deg castor on that car. I ran about 4.5deg on the GTR only because of the limitations imposed by the front driveshaft angles.

another effect of positive castor is it adds dynamic camber when turning, which is good. Probably increases turning effort required though.

+3mm castor? or +3deg?
I run +3deg castor, makes the steering nice and heavy
I have machined castor rods with a nut on each side, works well but risk of breaking and twists the bushes in the LCAs.
Another thing I've noticed is it changes the angle of the swaybar link pins, does this effect how the swaybar functions??

When I rebuilt the front end of my daily driver the other week I used new nolathane castor bushes, when my mate wheel aligned it we cut the bush that is on the inner side of the car in half and put the extra half on the outside to get a bit more castor. We set the car straight ahead (0 toe) and I think 3mm positive castor.

It feels great under brakes now and the car doesnt wander along the highway. I dont know but initial turn in feels better, this could also be because it doesnt have 8mm toe in like it did.

so if you take a corner then let go of the wheel having more caster will bring the wheels back to the forward direction?

how can i adjust the catsor on my 120y? if i get my caster rods machined how much machining do you recomend for a street car and do i need to put a thread on the newly machined part of the rod?