no i have gas shocks now. i'm going to put in the stock springs and save up some cash for a better front brake and suspension setup.

if you still have oil shocks, cut a short peice of pipe to go over the shock rod. Put the nut over the top. When the strut droops, the pipe stops the piston going all the way up in the strut tube. This keeps the spring captive.

cheers!

I doubt they'll pass wired springs! throw something in that stays captive by itself for the roadworthy

will wiring them in pass a roadworthy? or should i be heading out to buy new springs? i just need it to pass as thisisn't the end brake and suspension package i want. or should i just chuck my old 120Y springs back in for now?

what went wrong is the lowered Kings spring is too short for the standard shock length. Its Kings crap spring design - that's all.

If you look at the Kings springs catalogue, the lowered Stanza spring is the same part number as a stanadrd 1200 front spring. work that out.

so that's the what went wrong part.

to fix it properly, you need a shortened shock. but you can't do that with your Monroe inserts.

or you could by a coilover kit and the same rate spring plus a tender coil to keep it captive at full droop.

the best you can do with the parts you've got is wire the springs in. wire them to the spring perch and the top spring cap.

may as well have gone and bought $20 gemini coils from a wrecker and cut them down. You'd get the same result as the $140? coils from Kings. except the gemini ones would ride and handle better too.

okay so i know boofhead is going to send me adigital head smack, but i have early stanza struts under the front of my 120Y, with 1600 disc and caliper with standard monroe shocks and lowered stanza king springs.

when i jack the car up and the struts are at full droop the springs aren't captive in the top spring cup.

can someone tell me what went wrong here? and the best way to fix it, as i think it's a bit of a safety issue and ii need to take the car for a roadworthy.