1.
With the hammer method, you don't hit the ball joint, you hit the knuckle arm the it fits into!



2.
The fork tool is easy, but usually ruins the rubber seal.

3.
The puller is perhaps the best way for novices.

Details and pictures: club wiki

Pfft big hammer for the win! That all we do at work. If you hit it in the right spot at the right pressure it should pop out 2nd-3rd go. Ball joint seperators can be handy if you cant swing a hammer in there. but remember to leave the bolt on a few threads so it doesnt fly up and whack you in the face!

thanx for the help lads,thats my job on saturday!

I replaced my one balljoint's rubber a while ago.Was cheaper than buying a new balljoint.
Just buy a balljoint puller.Very cheap.I once saw how they remove them with a hammer.Almost got a heart attack.
You will quickly figure out how and where to use the puller.If not, just consult a mechanic to show you.

i dont have a spare, but surely one of the lads here will have one spare they may wanna part with.

ive looked around for a new master clynder, and would u belive i cant find one! would u know of any one that might have one for sale? i think i need a new one when i put my foot on the brake it slowly sinks to the floor.

dont forget to pull out the grease gun and fill em up with grease.

thanx for the tip im guna have a go at it,whats the worst that could happen?

to remove the balljoints 3 or 4 bolts that hold it to the lower control arm and the 2 that hold it to the bottom of the strut.
16mm i think.


Quote:

i would not reccomend hitting any of the tapered doovers out with a hammer at all.
buy a proper tool.

balljoint is at the base of the strut. 2 bolts into the strut, and 3 into the lower arm ....

Or is the 120y/1200 one different. I have been driving a modified 1200 for too long...