if the heater core is bad - bypassing it is easy..

there should be a connection coming out if the back of the cylinder head... and the one coming off where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine... connect both of those together and the heater is bypassed..

I'm curious on how the models without heaters like the panelvans were done

apparently the UK spec 120Y panelvans had no carpet, no seatbelts, no stainless steel trim, no heater, no radio, no cigarette lighter..

"b310gx wrote:
For the Heater not working, where the hose off the back of the head goes through the firewall & into the heater, there's supposedly a valve that turns on & off the hot water to the heater core. This might have corroded into the closed position"

so the lines seem to be fine on my heater core. it seems to be leaking from the core itself. i was going to re-route the lines so the coolent cycles properly and stops dumping onto my floor.{not good for rusty datsuns} plus it runs on the hot side because of this i think. but after re-reading all the post i am looking for this "valve" b310gx talked about. if i just close it off wouldn't it have the same effect? if someone could tell me where this valve i would really appreciate it. re-routing the lines would be pointless if i could just shut it off. i have the haynes manual but it doesn't talk about the heater stuff much. thanks again.

well the lines that can be seen semm to have a tight connection. i guess i will try taking it out this weekend and either fix it, or route the lines into eachother. it's getting warm here anyway.

Often it is the tap that leaks

find the leak first. it could just be coming from a hose connection.

well i figured out the heating issue. heating core is leaking coolent all over the passeger floorboard. does this mean that it is busted for sure or do you think i could fix it? finding a heater core might be kinda tricky for me. thanks guys

Quote:
1 September 1972, so last-year B110s had larger bumpers.
1974, upgraded requirements. Nissan USA only ever fitted the large bumpers to the B210 ... unfortunately...

details: http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/FMVSS#Bumpers

For the Heater not working, where the hose off the back of the head goes through the firewall & into the heater, there's supposedly a valve that turns on & off the hot water to the heater core. This might have corroded into the closed position, or the cable from the heater control lever might have come off the linkage. Give these a try. There also appears to be a tape in the line that i assume comes back from the heater, with goes into the smaller branch of the inlet pipe on the drivers side ( the pink hose that runs back) this might be the problem,as i've never seen anything like this tape on any b210's or 210's here in Australia. Check if this might be the case.

What year did the USA start mandating those hideous Bumpers. They started making the b210's in 1973, maybe this is before the uglies struck & you could get something locally. As for how much to ship Bumpers from Australia to the US, i bet there'd be some people who'ed do a straight swap for one of those 5 speeds

the engine plate is pretty worn put and unreadable. but after scrubbing it it is indeed a a14. it has been great driving it around recently, i get a lot of funny looks and comments. problem is the heat isn't working. i am going to have to hook that up this weekend.

Welcome aboard , a couple of things.

First it is most likely an A14 engine and basically the A14 and A15 made roughly the same HP in the USA.....right around 80. Back in the day when these cars were still in pic-a-parts I remember seeing engine plates showing 72, 78, 81 HP. I think it must have to do with the various cylinder heads. The ID plate on the firewall will say what your A14 is belting out.

As for lowering our car; we used cut down 240Z springs front and blocks in the back............hick set up but worked well enough for track use. There is a difference in it being done proper and it is worth it. (since put on all the good parts)

For street use I'd leave the ride height near stock. I once used my 74 B210 notchback at an autocross. Only changes to the car were the addco sway bars and a set of 175/60 13's on alloy rims and some KYB shock and strut inserts............handled well and still rode nice. If I kept the car I would have added a 32/36 weber, header and 2 inch exhaust.

For bodywork check out some of the old SCCA GT-5 and ITC cars, there were some neat air dams available as well as rear deck spoiler . The full on racers had big box flares. Also check out Blue Moon Datsun C-sedan racer or GT-4 can't remember which class.

You can have a lot of fun with these cars for not a lot bucks OR for a lot of bucks build a car to scare yourself silly with. Oh be forewarned you may have this car a long time...........they are just to fun

Tom