Still can't get it working. The timing is correct now, an the dizzy module shaft doesnt look worn out. It definatly has spark, as I took out plug two and cranked and a visible spark was present.

Has fuel, the fuel pump goes and puts out good pressure.

When the dizzy module was out, when you turn the shaft slowly you can hear each fuel injector click, so they must be working.

The ECU has power, the lights are on. We checked the coils with a multimeter while cranking and there is activity on all of them.

I have no idea why, you turn the key and it doesnt even try to kick over, just the started motor going.

The thing that annoys me is I drove it for 40 mins and a couple of times when I put the clutch in it stalled, so taking the clutch out it went again. But later on even taking the clutch on and off, it felt like when you run out of petrol and let the clutch off, and try to roll start a car while driving. Any suggestions, I have looked at all the wiring and every thing is still plugged in, could it be the ECU needs to be reset or something?

Thanks

Well I got it going, turns out I didn't have power to the computer.

I had a problem with a worn out cam shaft with this motor before the transplant. Was told it is common for the spider gear on the end of the cam to wear down and then it jumps a tooth when hot and driving around crazy.

But the car went after I connected the computer. So off I go and went for a drive in the hills and the bloody timing and that cam problem came back, real quick to. I thought it would slowly go out of wak like last time.

I also made the mistake of taking the dizzy off and trying to adjust it so I could get the car home. But nup no go, my brother towed me home.

So my new problem is how do you set up the timing so that is near the postion it is suppose to be. I have no idea how far out it is now, turn the key and it won't kick over.

I know that if it is in the correct position it still wont start, but at least when I take it some where to get it fixed it will be in the ball park.

Thanks

P.S. Any one know how much a CA18 Cam Shaft is?

paid $580 to engineer mine

but it was a single inspection. about 3 hours total.


was also nearly 3 years ago, so sounds pretty fair

It could, however, be that something critical to the engine running is wired to the incorrect circuit and only has power with the key to 'start'.

You could try swapping out the ign. sw. from the other 120Y.

Hey there, yeah thats when it dies off. The engineer im using is Archie Robertson, in the Baywater area.

So it sounds like it would run until you let the key go from 'start' to 'on' and this is when it dies off?

If so, sounds like a faulty ignition switch.

Price sounds about right for the engineer mate cost me $700 to get mine done who are you using?

BTW can you let me know how much it costs you to get it engineered when you get it done. I'm having an L20B engineered into a 120y at the moment (Yes, I have 2 of them) and the eng is charging $780.

okay thanks for that, I'll let you know if I need any info. Cheers.