Beattie the 1.6 doesnt bolt up to the 1.3 box without mods. but possible.
The turbo zook drag racers have made more hp with the 1.3 for the bottom end of the 1.3 and rod stroke ratio. Unless you go billet honda crank conversion on the g16a/b the g13b wins hands down in turbo trim and all out power.
I have several 1.6 engines and after pulling them apart have now decided on the 1.3 for its bottom end. The crank on the g13b and supposedly g13bb are solid and forged where the 1.6 is hollow and the heads on the g16 series seem to suffer warping and cracking more often than the later refined g13bb. Rods on the g16 are spaghetti thin.
The forged bottom end o the the 1.3 allows it to handle over 350hp when its boosted. Wheres the g16 is around 200hp.
The jury is still out on the g16 cranks as many have bent and snapped at less hp.
Also the 1.3 blocks are way shorter (30mm) for clearance wheres the sump is also an issue on 1.6 engines. The stroke of the 1.3 is 77mm vs 90mm and both can be bored out to fit sleeves in the 78-79mm range.
Gozales in puerto Rico is using stock rods, crank and supposedly cast pistons! on a g13b turbo setup that is the fasted suzuki G series engine on earth. Currently under 9.90 seconds! He is the Guru on G series and will not use a g16.
Some have even used the stock hollow crank sohc 8v g13a engines to make over 180hp with boost. This engine is more reilable even with the hollow crank thanks to its rod stroke ratio.
What this translates to is a g13a is a 55kg engine that is found more comonly than a series engines.
If I had money though I would do a 1-1.4 liter bike engine setup which at around 50kg with 5/6 speed box and sequential shift, electric reverse and 170-190hp out of the box with no pollution gear is the ultimate in mass produced 4 stroke technology.
Id love a v4 honda pan european st1300 motor with a supercharger on LPG or the latest Vmax 1800cc coming out.

