The set up your talking about is about what the GX set up is; given how mild the GX cam is and you've likely gone beyond that my guess would be 100HP at the flywheel. Standard A14 is 79-80HP , GX set up is worth 15HP and say 5 more for the cam = 100HP. If you've cleaned up the porting another 5-7HP. Not going to blow anyone way but it will scoot enough to be fun.

Tom

Yep hes a great man with alot to learn from.
Ill post some pics soon of the build.
Yeah i was also looking for a 5 speed box to put in.

hope change the diff gears one day too.

I'm guessing that the bore is probably 79mm which is the generally accepted max for these engines & it's 3mm over the original size.

I think you should hang around your dad as much as possible as he obviously has much to teach. He sounds like a good man, so you had better keep this one.

If you have a ute, then the diff will probably be a 4.11 to 1 ratio. By switching to a 3.9 to 1 ratio you will lose a tiny bit of acceleration but gain in driveability, particularly on the highway. It's all good.

Yeah i totally agree with you Dodgeman thanks heaps for the reply. Dad and i built the motor. The carby is a downdarught weber.

I honestly dont know what how much bigger the pistons are exactly but the engine rebuilders said its substantially bigger and told me i probably wouldnt be able to bore it out any more.
I belive the car would be at least 10 to 1 compresion ratio.

The engine is currently in my datsun 1200 ute. I have done around 700klms on this motor at the moment and it runs like a dream :) i have a big smile on my face.

I wont worry about the HP just was curious. But you right this motor is strong and should hold together nicely.

Thanks for your explanation :) its all a learning curve

You're right, it's pretty vague.
Balancing the crank by itself produces nothing. Balancing the whole rotating/reciprocating mass will 'allow' the engine to rev out further without the problems associated with an out of balance condition & additional power is found in these higher revs

The double valve springs actually rob power at the lower operating speeds, but allow a higher peak rpm level before valve float sets in.

Bigger pistons? How much bigger? The flat tops will boost compression a little & make more use of the fuel, but if detonation is a problem, then retarding the spark will be the fix which negates the compression advantage.
If it's around the 10 to 1 ratio or a whisker more, it's all good.

Weber carb? Downdraught or sidedraught? Probably a downdraught & when it's tuned correctly, it will be a source of pure joy.

High torque cam.
Now this is the bit that it all hinges on. For street use, this is the one to have. It will not produce stellar rpm's or big horsepower numbers that impress the wankers, but combined with the mods you have described will very likely produce a good, strong, efficient & very loveable street engine.
It will 'wake up' the engine & allow it to perform strongly right across the whole rpm band.

If you are able to buy this engine at a good price, & you put it in a car/ute that came with an A12 or 1200 engine, then you will be very happy with it as it sounds like a well balanced build, & in my view at least, the builder had a good idea of what he was doing.

Forget the HP numbers game, it's the holy grail of fools unless you want a dyno queen.
The boost in torque means you can upshift at sensible rpm limits & pull away strongly in the next gear, & that's where its at for a road hack.

Hi Guys,

I know this is a pretty vague question guys, but wanted to know what sort of power i could be roughly expecting from the things that i have done to my a14 motor.

Balanced Crank
Bigger flat top pistons out of Mazda e3 (bored out block)
Single Weber and extractors
Double valve springs (dont know if this is standard)
Hi torque cam

Once again before you critise me i dont know too much about cars as you can probably tell and i know the question is vague based on the specs i have given. But surely people have done similar and would have rough estimate :)