Tomorrow I go to shop and buy it + post later some photos of installation process

DEFA engine heater part numbers:

35mm plug hole diameter
DA 411117 ?? Watt
DA 411106 600Watt
DA 411114 800Watt

:)

Absolutely agree, but DEFA does not have that engines in catalogue anymore.
I personally have A12 engine from Cherry N10 model.

What DEFA has in offer is Cherry N12.
car year engine heater
CHERRY 1.0, 1.3, 1.5 81 - 86 E10/13/15 122 ->>>these are OHC engines and have 30mm holes


This is why I am confused with what DEFA replied. E10/13/15 81-86 are E type OHC with 30mm holes,
A engines have 35mm holes.

I guess I go to dealer and measure the heaters by my self. I'll post updates

A-series engine has three 35 mm welch plugs on the left side of the engine, behind the manifolds.

E10 and F10 Cherrys used A-series engines (A10, A12, A13, A14 and A15). Later N10 (circa 1982) Pulsar/Cherry used E-series.

are you kidding? going to my local Nissan dealer is always a pain. Guys that work there don't even know, that some times DATSUN ever existed. --> no way to help me by Nissan dearer. In Slovakia, they are idiots. They don't5 sell anything they have in stock.

Yesterday I received a mail from DEFA Austria telling me 35mm heaters are:

A411106 Dm 35 mm und 600 Watt
A411114 Dm 35 mm und 820 Watt.

today DEFA Norway replied:

Hello,

First off all I can inform you that we don’t have the exact information on your car.
All other Cherry 1.0, 1.3, 1.5, use element 411122, this is 35mm.
But we also have one on 30mm. this has 411117 as partnr.
------------------------

I am confused now. Nissan E type engines (follower of Atype are OHC) and have 30mm plug holes.

Please help... :(

Thanks

i have one of those block heaters installed. Are they hard to get now? I got one for going up to the snow where propane would vaporize badly so it seemed like a good idea.

Why not just go down to your local Nissan dealer and buy one? List price $33. It's a universal one.

Back in Minnesota folks would light up some charcoal in a trash can lid and slide it under the engine. Worked ok until some manufacturers started using plastic oil pans and garages got burned down when the oil pan melted.

Hi,

the first picture looks like DEFA WarmUP engine heater. Do you know the DEFA part number?? I want to get one, but they don't have Nissan A12 engine in catalogue anymore.

Thanks,

Peter

I disagree that a few minutes of idling is bad for the engine.

It's winter here & I start my engine on near full choke, then immediately push the knob in untill the engine is running at about 800 to 900 rpm. At this point the fast idle function has come into play but the choke plate is mostly open & the amount of air being consumed by the engine is low enough as to be unafected by the choke plate.

I leave it run for a few minutes to allow the oil to penetrate all of the places where it is intended to go while the engine speed & engine loadings are low.

At this point the engine is actually running lean due to the temperature & you are right, a portion of the fuel arrives in the cylinders unvaporised, so it's in liquid form, however, at nil engine load, the manifold vacuum is at its highest for the circumstances, so maximum possible vaporisation is occuring.

Since my engine is a stock 1200 it uses the 'hot spot' form of manifold heating & this spot is heating up while the engine is running. It doesn't take long for some appreciable warmth to reach this spot & improved fuel vaporisation occurs within a very short time. The upshot of this is that with more fuel arriving in the cylinders as vapour, the mixture is starting to drift towards the ideal & rpm's increase, thereby creating more hot exhaust gas & heating the manifold even more.

This in turn also improves the manifold vacuum which in turn helps to improve the conversion of liquid fuel to a gas, thereby improving the air fuel ratio, which increases rpm, which heats the manifold & increases vacuum etc. etc.

I tend to wait untill the rpm rise to about 1200 to 1500 before slowly pushing the choke knob in & bringing the revs down to about 1000. This whole process takes only a few minutes at most.

Once I have taken the chill out of it's bones I bring the revs down to about 800 or so & select 'low' & drive up the moderately steep hill near my place at about 2000 to 2200 rpm. This allows it to climb the hill without upshifting & then struggling in second gear. The light throttle needed also means that manifold vacuum remains high & this combined with manifold heat minimises the amount of liquid fuel reaching the cylinders.

By the top of the hill & on the flat the temperature guage is already showing a reading & warmth is flowing from the heater, so I select 'drive' position & drive on steadily but normally.

The Jatco trans needs vacuum to control the shift points & if I drive off too soon, I need more throttle than normal, which results in low vacuum & higher upshift points. The cold oil in the trans, combined with the higher rpm makes for a harsh shift, particularly the 1-2 shift, so a little heat means a bit more vacuum & a smoother shift.
By using this method I have the temp needle right in the middle of the guage within 2k from my home which puts me at the edge of town, but of course the whole engine & trans are not properly warmed untill about 16k [10 miles] has rolled under its wheels & this is easily achieved as I can maintain an easy 60 to 80k in the rural roads where I live, increasing the pace steadily as the whole car warms.

So for me, a short time at a fast idle after a stone cold winter start makes a lot of sense.

Quote:

Worst thing you could do for a engine. Now you're running an engine very rich at idling, which means more unburn fuel gets into your oil. The bores are being washed clean of oil by this excess fuel, and wear of the bores and rings will occur faster. Your engine takes longer to heat up this way too, and more wear will appear sooner. You're also wasting lots of fuel this way. Best thing to do, is drive of at a very sedate speed as soon as you get it fired up. This way the engine heats up faster, negating all or most of the previously mentioned negative effects. Most vehicle manufactures recommend driving of right after start up...