Your probably right rb20 - I don't mind if it comes back in 5-10 yrs....can I get away with 5 years without reoccuring rust without sandblasting?

This is the boy's Torana I thinking of using some sort of brush on rust convertor/enscapultor the paint brightside over the top of it - a $200 solution was the plan.

Or am i dreaming to go that cheap

if you dont want it to ever come back it will need to be sand blasted

Interesting reading....I might look into these rust convertors - as the price of sandblasting a whole car runs up over $1000 here! I'm looking for a $200 solution to removing rust from a whole car then painting it...

POR-15 is not a rust converter, its a coating/encapsulator. If your going to let it set for months on end prior to paint consider using a phosphoric acid rust converter, "Ospho", navel jelly, etc...

these convert iron oxide(rust) into iron phosphate that coatable.

Then clean throughly, wire bruch, get all rust out then coat with POR-15. This stuff is as hard as a rock when set up, if this is inside a rocker panel or inside the vehicle thats probably a good location for this. If your talking about exterior panels with top coats of base & clear to go above this then generally its not recommended, its too slick & too hard. you can also consider an epoxy coating as long as its not in the sun (no UV) instead of POR-15.

If you dont do something like this method first, rust will reappear.

http://www.ospho.com/

Here is an excellent auto body site to search thru as well.

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

i think the POR15 would be good in Austraila - as they have a tie coat primer that is a hi build sandable primer.

Just get the part(s) as clean as you can with wire wheel then scuff it a little with sander and then coat it with a rust inhibitor like the POR-15, Rust Bullet, or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. It makes for a good base coat and seals the rust longer than anything else.

Hmm...I'd heard some sucess stories with the POR15, KBS Coatings, Eastwoods - so thought it would be OK.

A panel beater friend of mine said rust converters were pretty crap too, I just want to believe their good so I don't have to pay $1000+ to get the whole car sandblasted.

I had surface rust on the roof of my ute.
I got it sandbasted - It's about as clean as you can get then.
Don't take any short cuts (I am not saying anyone's advice is a short cut)
Because once the top coats are on, they're on.
the last thing you want is your fresh paint job to start lifting etc.

I don't believe in any of those "rust converters"

To remove the rust you need to hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder, or a similar rust removing wheel - whether it be a flapper wheel or disc or one of those fibre discs that look like a giant gasket remover.

Good old fish oil is a good next step. Its highly penetrative, very corrosion resistant and dries to a film you can paint over.

I like to use a kill rust type initial primer over areas that had rust, just make sure its sprayable. Then seal that with a normal automotive primer.

i just piked up this stuff from the paintshop and it says to wet the rusted area first with clean water, wipe over with rust stuff then once dry wipe it of with a dry rag. is this all i have to do. surley this alone wont cure my surface rust problem will it?