Mine ran twin SU's. I don't think I woulda been able to use the standard downdraft manifold and carb. Whhat really rotted my knob was that after what was far from the easiest conversion I've done the motor turned out to be almost shagged. It has an A87 head with HEAPS shaved off, and it still only had 150 odd psi. Then I had a really hard time finding a good replacement L series motor. Ended up having to pay ####loads for an L18.

yeah did the same to my crossmember, the drag link is higher up than the crossmember
with an L20b it sat low enough to have the stock filter assembly on it, with the inch spacer below the carby so i could run cable accelorator

I cut out the top of the crossmember and welded a new bit in to get the engine down as low as I could. And when we modded the sump sat a bit of bluetac on the crank to make sure there was enough clearance. It was a mission to get the motor low enough since the L20B has a taller block than the L18.

dont know what the sump actually came off....but theres not really much of it left
remade the whole rear and middle secton so there was the least amount of sump left without having the crank run into it

pretty sure my L series is about the lowest it can possibly go without a custom/modified drag link

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What sump are you running Pigdog? After I modified the 810 sump I had to clear my 310 draaglink, I found that the sump from a 910 bluebird already had the shape needed to clear it due to needing to clear the steering rack on the 910. I was bitter. That was most of a day wasted.

yep that will fix that

Oh well if it still hits on full lock once up running i'll just wind the stops in so it doesn't have so much lock!

mine definately looks to go straight across, and bends back a heap....but then thats looking at it in the car and not comparing directly to a 1200 one

it still manages to hit the sump if i turn hard enough, would hate to see what a stock one would do

Like bart said it does actually dip down a bit, Like 10-15mm max. but your right it does bend backwards more than downwards.
I only needed a very small amount more clearance. I had to drop the end of the gearbox for clearance reasons and my just clearing steering became not quite clearing steering. The 120y draglink had just enough downward dip to fix the problem.
Its certainly wouldn't say you'll be able to mount your motor way lower by using a 120y draglink

The 120Y unit dips down lower, whilest maintaining the same overall length. This gives Nick more clearance on the sump of his SR20. When I fitted an L20B into my old B310 coupe, I had to alter the sump pan to get the motor to clear the drag link, due to the fact that it rises as it aproaches each lock.