I managed to fit 195/45-15's in the front that is lowered 2" (shorter springs) but has 210/120Y struts/brakes. On the rear I have 195/50-15's with a pair of thin wheel spacers, and is also
lowered 2" (lowering blocks). The only time I rub is going in reverse down a hill when I hit the brakes and turn. The wheels are ADR 15x6.5 aluminum that are supposed to be Front Wheel
Drive rims, but they fit perfect with my setup. Someday I'll get pics to show this car!

I heard a lot of people in Puerto Rico drop Toyota 3-TC engines (1.8L) in 1200's and that it drops right in pretty easily. A guy I met this weekend says he gets over 400 hp from these
engines w/turbo. I love the A series engines, but it's got me thinking.....


-Andy

245s..man that's cool. Not on a car with back doors though. The engine is apparently close...But I was warned that the builder is busy, and has trouble prioritising his work. The front
end is complete, with the intercooler I got from you fitting nicely in the standard radiator hollow. Got a good grill, trims, front bar, front panel, guards, bonnet etc.. It looks good.
Much better than my old 1200.
But I need the engine back so I can remake the pedal box to suit my clutch master cylinder and have it easily clear the engine.
I'm going to try and get my interior trim done offline, before the paint, so I can assemble the project quickly, after the paint.

I hope it all comes together nicely, I'm sure yours, with all it development work, will be quicker, but mine should do 12s. So long as it kicks most WRXs, the 'datsun difference' is
being achieved.

Hey dattodude and stirlinmag,thank you for your comments,I have this 14x8 wheels w/205-55-14 tires and my plan is to lower the car 2 inches,I guess I will use blocks first to check it out.
I have another tire setup,215 50 13 on 13x7 wheels,maybee 13x8 would work better,but that is the second option,I will try the 14's first.On the front the 14 setup is composed of 14x7
wheels with 195 45 14 tires,all yokohamas AVS intermediate. I contacted a shop(professional spring shop) that will decamber the springs 2 inches for 120 both(60 a piece,us dollars).
Also,as I will try the blocks first,the suspenssion should become firmer than it is right now right?no big worry for tires touching the fender,I hope,or else I will have to use my spring
helpers. Thanks.

Hey Chris I managed to run 245/60/14's on mine thsi is with a fair bit of enlarged guard and flares 205 was widest before this mod hows your engine ect getting along?? cant wait to
see it hit the road will have to meet at the drags and do teh datto compare thing

My advice if you go for the flattened spring would be that you go for a maximum of 3" (75mm) any more than this and this spring may flatten and reverse it's camber and then it no longer
works as a spring and the ride and handling suffers. Lowering blocks are a great way of determining your ride height before committing to altering the leaf spring. Reversing your spring
eyes lowers the car by the distance the centre of the eye moves. Remember that any work on springs should be done by a qualified blacksmith/engineer as the springs must be heat treated
again after being modified. Here in NZ the maximum thickness of lowering block that can be fitted is only 2" (50mm). Anything over that can screw your handling with the spring leafs
twisting and bending your diff tubes.

I'll find the picture, or take another this evening. I did buy the springs second hand, so I can't tell you too much about them. But I have a comparison picture I think. They are on the
car at the moment. So I could take a photo there also.

I run a few different wheels on the back, and manage to fit 205/60s on a 14x7 rim. They only just fit. I think 205/55 is the biggest you can go even with optimal offset. Otherwise they
will rub somewhere..springs...inner guard..body..

Chris

Dattodude,I forgot to ask you for that picture if possible,the reversed eye springs,to visualise the idea,that should bring the car down about how much? Did you also
decambered the springs as well? thanks.

Thanks for that tip,1to1 ratio about the blocks relative to the axle is what I suspected but having never done it myself I was afraid maybee a 2 inch block would had droped the car
more or less than expected. I think I will check the prices on the spring eye reversal vrs spring decambering and if it gets too steep I will go for the blocks for the meanwhile. About
the inner tire/wheel well area,I think it is fine,but I will double check. Thanks.

Yes,I forgot to mention eye reversal,I saw that done on a Fiat spider were the eyes are reversed,and that drops the vehicle fine,if only eye reversal,How much would it drop?,maybee
some decambering added to the eye reversal will work fine,perhaps it would be too much,only eye reversal is needed to drop it about 2 inches,21/2 inches(which is what I need unless
I get some wheell well arch work).?Thanks for your replies.

I believe that the design of the live axle would cause a direct 1:1 ratio, drop to block size. What is the clearance between your wheels and the inner fender? Are you going to rub
there? I like softening the rear (by removing a leaf) on a 1200 for better weight transfer on acceleration. I could be dead wrong in my reasoning, but it has worked well for me so far.