yeah I was aware I'd need to change the strut give me some credit :P lol..

was working on the springs first seeing what others have gone for then would look into shocks.

i'm only really something to lower it for a short while till i get some coilys.

thanks for the info guys and Akina I'll shoot you an email now keen ith a price like that :)

Ron

yeah as mik said, ive got el cheapo alloy coilovers. they do however have the spring perch and the locking not, none of this only having the spring perch that tightens to the thread stuff

but before you go looking at springs and being all "cut springs are the devil bobby" to everyone, you will need to shorten your struts and get shorter inserts to suit
otherwise for one your new fangled springs wont be captive and will be as good as cut springs anyway, and you will have no suspention travel apart from the squish of the bump stop. so said springs might as well not be in the car

so once the suspention travel issue is sorted then you can get onto springs, in which case you will probably have to go coilovers, or atleast that sorta diameter spring so that the bottom perch can be nice and low without collecting the tyre to much

piggy and i are using alloy kits but he welded them in securely and tight, no grub screws anywehre. same instalation as a better quality kit.

But if the alloy thread are strong and don't break, why is it worth twice the price for non-alloy threads? Granted you'll need to keep the alloy threads lubricated for dissasembly or they'll get damaged when you take it apart, but that's not a big deal by me.

They guys who use Ground Control here like them.

please do not buy those kits... alloy threads and grub screw locking is not flash. this is the same reason T3 coilover kits are rubbish.


i do custom coilovers, from $750.

shoot me e-mail if i can help

shakotan_garage@live.com.au

just in the process of buying the coilovers now! seems like the best option....

nah 1200 struts dont need the perches welded lower down, thats 200b struts (essentially the same but 40mm lower in the strut height and a larger bottom spring perch, and hubs and brakes and calipers)

200b ones are the go if you want to lower it a bit more but you need to either reweld the stanza or sunny(or 120y or 1200) perches on the strut body lower down.
only issue with welding the perch lower down is it can foul on the wheels you might be using.

I have had stanza, 200b re welded perches and now shorthened 200b with coil overso n them. 200b are the go- and good thing is that the stanza rotors, hubs and callipers bolts straight on if you are using the girlock set up now.

Just get some girlok front 200b sturts and do the coil over treatment, better off shortening the strut body and using 240z shocks like me or r31 or s12 ones (cant remeber which is lower)

ahh ok thanks guys. was never a fan of cutting springs.

will have a look at the perch this afternoon se what i can do. fond these from the states tho

http://www.ground-control.com/gcnisscat.htm

$199 Usd for the front pair of coilovers for the 1200 which is $211..

Stanza struts, when fitted to a Datsun 1200, have the spring perch cut off and rewelded lower. Perhaps it wasn't lowered enought. Take a look, maybe it will be more efficient to move the perch down than to source new springs.

i could sell u the other half of my springs lol.u really need to get more strut travel if u want it to be low.i would just shorten your struts then cut ur springs.