Generally speaking, you'd go a couple of thou closer than std if the boost is high enough to start to challenge the ignition system's ability. If you are running upgraded electronic ignition std gap should be fine. fwiw, in the past engines have come out of the factory with as little as 25thou plug gap.

I should have probably added to my earlier post, that although it's the extra VE of the secondary being open that causes it to ping (where it won't if you lift the throttle), it's still possible above and beyond that that the secondary jet and air corrector need to be changed (bigger jet, smaller air corrector) - ideally a combo of both and they'll then affect the part throttle mixture less but make it richer the higher the flow/demand increases.

any idea on wat sort of gap settings i should be running on bp6es?

That's not the jets (as such) it's the fact that when you lift the pedal, it's less volumertically efficient and less likely to detonate a less dense, lower volume, less compressed intake charge. Just the same as a non SC engine (*with locked timing) will detonate (eventually) at full throttle but not at part throttle.

You'll reach a point where reduced timing just isn't going to cut it, you'll need less compression, less boost a cooler charge or higher octane fuel (and of course most of those are inter-related).

If you go to a paint wholesaler, ask for toluene (a paint solvent) also known as 'methyl benzine' . Make sure it's a pure source, not mixed with anything else. Run about 30% toluene to 70% petrol (highest octane pump fuel) that's about the limit of the toluene concentration before it starts to cause fuel lines and other stuff to deteriorate. And flush it out (run to empty on the mixture, then re-fill with petrol) with pure petrol if you wish to leave the car sitting for a few months.

Even cheaper - get the existing washer bottle, and aim the spray nozzle on the primary barrel of the carb, the venturi, throttel plate and even the supercharger itself will help break it up - try manually spraying it and see if the pinging disappears on the road at full throttle. It probably will.

ive got it running heaps better now! Retard it abit. Now for some new plugs and octain booster for the moment. Will see how it goes. I think my problem is secondary jet settings cos if i don't pedal it it run's sick if i do boot it it still ping's a little.

And try a set of the bp6es or bp6ey

my s/c a15 with e15 dizzy is set at 7 degrees at idle with standed timming curve
but had to run less timming before i setup the water/meth i would start at 2 degrees and see what happens

Treat it like a turbo motor. Lock the dizzy and set the base timing to 20 degrees. Unless you have an E15T dizzy which will have boost retard. Then you can set the timing normal.

Im gona sugest if 35 is total for a Standard 1200 and I think base timeing is about 8 degrees if you run 1degree at idel you should get ya total 28??

also wat is a good static timing i should set. If total is to be 28 with boost, i have an e15 elec dizzy.

jetting is for a 32/36 dgav