yah thats what I thought DD

Very clever indeed, a great use of the available wiring!!
thanks again ang94541!!!

So anyway it runs, WOOT!!!!

Had the ballast resistor cable on neg coil not +ve

What a douche!!!!

Its backfiring a bit out the carbs and zorst but she bangs man she bangs!!!

Now to get a zorst made up and job done!!!!

that's a good idea.

Thanks ang94541

So you got the fuel pump set to go after the oil pressure switch is thrown, but u can still prime the fuel system with the override button before cranking yeah??

electric fuel pump circuit

Here is how I did mine. Sorry about the quality of the drawing.
The oil pressure switch is a SPDT(single pole, double throw). The common is grounded. With no oil pressure the dash light turns on. With oil pressure and the dash switch in the on position, the relay/fuel pump turns on.

Also, with no oil pressure(engine off) and the dash switch in the on position, I can press the override button to momentarily turn on the pump.

Note that this is probably only suited for carbed engines since the relay/pump won't turn on for a few seconds after the engine has started.

I'm not trying to confuse anyone. Just showing a slightly different variation.

Lol, those devious japanese engineers, As soon as I saw this engine (18RGEU) I though damm! Toyota copied the FJ20?!

Yep, shouldn't matter. Hilux just copied Datsun Truck

Thanks DD

Still no spark though, just nothing.

I read through the wiki bit on elec trouble shooting and I guess the coil isn't getting 12v when key is switched to ON

Would explain why I couldn't take the switch power for the relay from there!!!

I am working on a Hilux though so it may be different from the wiki, but this sort of stuff is so universal it shouldn't matter yeah?

Good to hear.

You can use the ballast resistor. It goes to the + side of the coil. But since you have a 12V ignition system, just remove it for higher performance.

Yeah cheers mate the problem was I didn't have a good enough earth, I was running originally running it from the pump body only, then tried one in the engine bay only

it only started to work when I piggy backed the earth on the pump body to the one in the engine bay now she's sweet, I'm seein fuel at the carbs!!


I think theres a spark problem now though cos the old setup ran a ballast resistor and the new scorcher ignition doesn't need it obviously

I put the neg of the ballast resistor to the neg on the new scorcher coil, maybe thats it??

Anyway, back out to try a few diff combinations!!!


Oh and another thing that is weird, 87a acts in same way as 87. Duno why but both get 12v when key in ON and both get nuffin when key is OFF, I dunno abouth that, maybe I need to put another aftermarket electric thing on this car now!

Cheers guys

Is the relay clicking when you turn the key? All you need for the relay to work is 85 and 86 connected to switched +12V (ignition) and earth. Then when the +12v is supplied the relay should have an audible click? This means the switch in the relay is working and that would then connect +12V (battery) to the pump.