Try installing an auto gearbox.
It absorbs some of the power but it has some benefits for drag racing:

1. gear changes are quicker but gentler (doesn't break driveline parts so often).

2. the torgue converter (replaces the clutch) actually multiplies the torque for taking off.
This means you get up to speed quicker in the game even though the top end speed might not be as much.
Checkout the times for the best drags and you will find that they are usually not the fastest speeds.
The theory goes something like this:
Get up to reasonable speeds very early, then cruise at that speed to the end of the strip.
Your opponent (who has spent all his money to get good top end power at the expense of bad low end power) takes forever to get past that crappy
low end power band.
By the time he has finally got into the power band and is getting really great speeds you have already crossed the finishing line.
he crosses faster but you cross first.
Torqu wins drags, not power.
Autos multiply low end torque better than manual's.

3. You can buy torque converters that launch at different revs. They trade off against top end power but talk to your local auto specialist.

4. they are easier to drive home ater you have zonked out on adrenaline.

5. you can drive around with your hand on your girl's knee/thigh/other.

6. they are usually stronger than manuals (constant mesh gears).

Beware that the tunnel for an auto is wider than the tunnel for a manual car (ie it might not fit a manual car).
Subtle but forceful massaging by hammer may or may not prove suitable.
Measure first.

- Wayne S.

Hey Steve, what do you usually stall at (rpm's) before you launch? The first Import Drags at SIR are this Saturday, and they'll have one every month after that. I was hoping to go
sometime this summer after I get the new carbs and header on. The only problem is that I can't figure out a good stall speed with the Datsun. Last time I went I busted a U-joint from
letting the clutch out at about 4,000. What are some tricks to keep the drivetrain from suffering or blowing up on launches???

Hi gang,
The nismo parts supply for 1200's is very minimal
I think they have cams and a few accesssories.Nothing you could not find elsewhere.
The Mazda engine Idea will get you a lot of horsepower BUT! I have talked to some people who
went that route and they said getting the seals to hold up to racing is very expensive and I was with
a lot of them at the Import Nationals and they are
hard to get to run right all the time .
The traction problem on a 1200 is firstly due to
the low weight of the cars and there are a few cheap tricks that have helped get the Bee out of the hole even with the treaded tires I am currently using. One is to clamp the
front of the
leaf springs to slow wheel hop and I use a clamp on helper on the back too so the springs won't wrap up when I launch. A front wheel line lock to
do a good burn out warms the tires nicely too.
Somewhere I have a picture of the Bee with the right front wheel about 2 inches off the ground at launch and that is without any traction bars!
The price for the race engine is sweet, I wished I was closer I would probably take it !!
Lots of Good Info Guys !!
C-Ya Steve

Not for a long while :( There a quite a few engine guru's that get high performance engine parts for A series I know of a 180hp A15 with not one Nismo bit in it.If you want
a good engine builder give me a yell Ill give yo his name number ect would be harder for you as you are in tassie He is in sydney.

Does anyone know whether you can buy genuine NISMO parts for
1200's??

Simon