yea i know ,i knida rehash on stuff and ask stuff that later ill see writen in the manuel :S


yea i google them nigel and nothing came up so i thought they didnt have a site !
it seems they sell hot up bits for magnas ROFL !

Jesse get it on the dyno, these guys are good:

RPW Racing Performance Works.
50 Gordon Rd (east)
Osborne Park

PH: 08 94431719

www.rpw.com.au

..........

You need to read more. More of the responses and more of the manual, real basic questions you're asking that are answered almost immediately in the manual. I don't mind helping but take the time out to do a little on your own a little reading will answer any of your questions better than I have answered.

Yes there are different nozzle sizes, you can see the different nozzle sizes in the parts list at the back of the manual, the smaller pump nozzle sizes are difficult to obtain, it may be worthwhile taking them to get professionally filled and re drilled to a smaller size.

oh after reading your last post ,are all the pilot jets the same or is there a differnt size ? taper ??

yea the guy that owned them before nigel ,decided to braze the linkages and make his own pump rods ,but im going to find a new set of pum rods ,and im not sure that the shaft id bent ,cos when i closed the throttle i checked that the butterlfys were completely seating properly and there wasent any gap in between the barrel and the throttle butterfly

so unless it was just an optical illusion haha

well i dont have the pumps hooked up ,and i think that might have something to do with having crappy responce ,but im pretty sure wolf creek can get push rods

so i need to get /want

stacks and filters (red anodised stacks, from dundee)
push rods
a few braided fittings to fit into the old banjo holes
fuel pressure gauge (liquid filled)
new extractors (bigger)
electronic dizzy
rebuild my alternator ,and polish the housings :D


and i thought the pilot screw (when screwed in) reduces the air in the mixture .or it the other way around ?

Popping means it's lean. You can't expect them to run without popping when the pilot screws are wound all the way in. You're also running a risk of burning something out if you keep running it with the pilot screws wound in so tight.

If you've accelerated or revved the engine and it goes back to idle without a pop and then begins to pop after every ten seconds or so, the pilot screws are definitely a contributor. When you rev it the accelerator pump delivers a dose of fuel which keeps the carbs happy with no pops, once the engine is idling and back onto the primary circuit (which is running lean because you've wound the pilot screws in) it will start to pop. Fix the pilot crew adjustment or replace them altogether and re adjust.

Those pilot screws participate in the first 25% of the throttle band so adjusting them to give a better idle will also help the circuit perform better throughout that rev-range.

Plastic? No way, painted black. I buy all my gear form Todd Walrich.

I don't know carbs that well, I'm just speaking from what I've learned. Someone will write up tomorrow saying something that I've said that is not true or not quite right, so don't take my word for gospel.

The differentiation in the induction noise amongst the different barrels corresponds with the valve timing of your engine and (to an extent) how well your valves are seating an how efficient the burning/combustion process is (push-rods lengths, valve spring pressure uniformity, cam lobe wear, tappet length etc will also have some contribution to the timing - goin into way too much detail though) . The volume of the combustion chambers will also have an influence over combustion characteristics so naturally, on a home-tuned engine, you'll get all sorts of variances. The fact that you have close sounds/frequencies amongst the corresponding barrels (1&3, 2&4) is a fair indication that you are somewhat close to having a fairly balanced setup.

I think I mentioned on the first page that the sound isn't commonly uniform across the barrels of a single twin barrel carb (dependant on engine tuning), so I wouldn't worry too much, but it would be good practice to double check the valve clearances and see if this closes the difference between the noise amongst the two barrels.

As for the twisted shaft? If these were my carbs, I reckon I'd put them on the shelf and look for a new set. I think you mentioned the accelerator pump connecting rod had been braised also? Seems these may have had a tough life, maybe that's why you go them for fairly cheap? Who knows. You'll have to keep an eye out for detail of wear/failure because they sound fairly tired to me.

nope still got the old ones but i have fixed them for now ,i would like to see if the new ones will make any difference

ive noticed that at idle ,it wont pop at all for about a minute or so at idle, then it will pop every ten seconds or so when it is at idle

and when the motor is coming back to idle it will pop once or twice (slight popping out the carby) what could this be caused by ??

wow just seen that picture chris ,wanna sell them ?????

where did you get your parts from ?


and my adjusters arent that fancy but they are just a plate with a spring held screw that pushes on the throttle shaft

can i buy a kit that will have the same ones as yours and whats the go with the plastic starters ?

NO - But good luck with it, Did you get the extractors swapped yet?