mate i cant exactly get a pic without pulling it all apart again.. but if u have a single belt pulley on the crank already and get the gilmer pulley you'll see what needs to be done..
its just a small couple of mm rightangle recess so that the gilmer pully can sit just inside the origional crank pulley on the engine..

its a bit hard to explain but if u do go ahead with the kit it will all make sense when u get up to that bit..

Quote:

Just to clarify this bit:
Quote:

:)

25mm-wide gilmer belts are commonly available: Summit Racing

mate no idea but the car drives nice and smooth not getting any hotter than what it used to and alternator is charging fine... what exactly do u need in the pic of the crank pulley?

Just had a read of your How-to.. nice write up :) How do the ratios of the small-block chev pulleys compare to the stock datsun ones? Also, could you take a pic of the crank pulley?

Heya Jmac, that first part of your comment may only be true if the belt is way over tensioned... if not there should be less load on the bearings.. as the belt isn't relying on friction for drive..

That looks neat, I don't think I've even heard a setup running to know what it sounds like.

ohhk well ill do a D.I.Y thread seperately..
the pulleys and belt cost $185 and $45 for a spare belt..
had to source a single belt crank pulley (i originally had a twin belt pulley) $50
get the single belt crank pulley recessed to the gilmer pulley fits in nicely and centre hole and 4xwaterpump holes to line up $70
10" thermo fan from supercheap auto $70
couple of bolts and washers $10

thanks for the positive comments guys..

There can be one 'big' drawback with these. A lot of the kits/adaptations end up spacing the belt centreline further forward, and this puts a disproportionately large stress on the bearings. generally alternators handle it pretty well, but water pumps don't. On the other hand, due to the nature of the belt/interlock with the pulley, you don't have to run a lot of tension to get grip (on that front 90% of people overtighten conventional v belts massively). So done right, you can 'get back' what you'd 'lose' as far as bearing life if it's not too far forward and it's not ridiculously tensioned

NOW to be FAIR the conversion you've done here actually isn't too bad on that front! And that actually puts it in a relative minority. Well done mate.

As long as you keep the belt tension and pulley placement right - about the only other thing to keep an eye on is to ensure the tooth count and subsequent drive ratios are a close match to the pulley diameter size ratios for the crank/waterpump/alternator. If you intend going really hard and high rpm, you could conceivably just run larger pulleys on alternator and w/pump and you're golden.

Out of interest - what did it cost you all up? I'm looking at such a setup (well not for the current ancillaries) to drive a supercharger. At the moment I'm seriously looking at just 'sourcing' the cam pulley (or a couple of them) and belt from a belt driven ohc engine (probably an rb30 since there's more than a few at the wreckers at the moment). Of course that limits me to a 1:1 ratio. bUt thankfully that is pretty much spot on.

Are there any listings/catalogues available where they offer a range of pulleys for the same belt tooth spacing (are there heaps of different tooth sizes around - I've never actually thought to look - for all I know they might only use a couple of common sizes or something) - anyone got a cheap source for the pulleys? (it'd be nice to have the option to alter the boost curve, but I'll live with 1:1 and a sc14 if not)

DD do you know if those 15mm setups are available outside of japan? and yes prices lol