Engine fires on all 4 now,

I swaped the dizzy over for one that had a vacum advance and wasn't locked,

Now it just needs a really good tune,

Thanks for all the help.
Simeon.

i had the same problem with my stanza 1600, i never got them to work properly, put su carbs on and problem solved. as far as i can tell it might be your idling jets that are too lean or was it running properly before? remember that 40mm carbs flows alot of air so the idling jets needs to be quite rich to compensate

Hi,

thanks for the help,

i Checked the tappets and they are set to what they should be, It has a straight linkage between the carbs (not overhead flimsy stuff)

The pic is before i reset the dizzy position (to the correct place) and got the new parts.

http://datsun1200.com/cache/14212_4cca9aaa59c8f.jpg

Quick update, 1 and 3 are now missing at idle and low revs, after i cleaned the spark plugs and reset the dizzy, so i am pretty sure its an electrical problem, i even swaped some of the spark plugs around to see if it made a difference, and nothing changed

Will keep updates coming.
thanks again,
Simeon

Attach file:

---

  rr.jpg (75.04 KB)

Agreed - I'd be looking at the carb first since it's 1 & 2 with the issue.

Since the tappets have recently been done, I'd actually also _strongly_ urge you to recheck them. If they were adjusted to a smaller than optimal clearance, the exhausts in particular can run hotter and even potentially lead to burned valves. I don't think that it would have happened that quickly (in fact it'd be close to impossible) but you'd want to double check them to avoid leading to an issue down the track that has similar symptoms but was caused by this, not the current issue.

One of the 'big' deals with twin webers and dellortos is the linkages. Cheap ones flex to buggery, So they never open the same amount each time you move the throttle. Where it gets worse is this - you're supposed to (if you want it to run 'right' set them up with return springs on each carb throttle link arm, so that they both properly return to zero. You also need the link arms to be all on the same angle, and have the tie-rod adjusted evenly. If they can't be gotten to an even airflow, there are other tricks.

I've been meaning to do a write up on how to basically reinvent the wheel - and do the linkages properly - because probably 90% of the ones I've seen were done wrong, badly wrong.

About the worst thing commonly seen (and this is even worse on triple carbed 6cyl engines - 3 of them all uneven) is that they remove the idle rpm screw from one of the carbs, adjust the idle on the other one, then adjust the tie-rod on the second carb (with no idle rpm stop screw) until the flow is matched. The problem there is that with a little bit of heat, expansion, and already flimsy linkages, it'll return that second carb to a different idle throttle position under all these differing conditions.

If you absolutely had to utilise that option, then the trick would be to get the car right up to operating temp, and set it then and there whilst there's a fair bit of underbonnet heat. It'll be a bit rough to start, and you might need to keep the acc pedal down 1/4 of an inch or so to run it at 1500-2000rpm for the first minute or so, or when pulling up to a stop, till it warms up, but then at least the idle whilst driving it will be fine each time you pull up.

If you really want I'll do a couple of diagrams of the additions/changes to a throttle linkage n the weber/dellortos (actually it can apply to SUs too, but some of them have better linkages) so that it'll idle fine and then have near perfect opening synchronisation with each other throughout the throttle opening range.

If the linkages are strong and adjusted well, then i'd look at float level in the carb, and needle and seat condition, maybe it's close to over-filling the fuel bowl at idle due to a scored/worn needle and seat. Only IF all those turned out negative would I go to checking the idle jets etc. My bet would be the linkages/idle rpm setting. Considering how bad most of them are (even though they cost a bit, they aren't necessarily worth persevering) it's probably the most likely situation.

If you can get pics of it it'd probably help to

Actually, thinking about it some more, if it is both 1 and 2 with the issue it is more likely to be a balance problem than a blocked idle circuit as there is a seperate idle jet for each cylinder and the odds of both being blocked is slim.

ahh.. twin carbs!

Check idle and progression circuits on cyl 1/2, they are seperate from the main circuit. Actually it will run on the progression circuit alot until probably over half throttle so focus on the idle circuit.

Remove and clean all jets, check the number of turns out for the idle screws..

I wont be able to do a compression test till the weekend,

Tappets were reacently done, Sprayed wd-40 on manifold,

Yes, it has twin dhla 40's on it, I have cleaned the back one, but i might have to do the front as well.

But i didn't think it would need it because it was going great at higher revs

Thanks for all of the help,
Simeon

Does the engine have twin carbs, DCOE`s etc? Could be linkage or idle circuit issue. But more likely to be tappets as mentioned above(valve recession).

That being said, It wouldnt "jump into life as revs increase" if it`s tight valve clearances. It would progressivly run smoother as the revs increase.

You can check for a vacuum leak with aerostart.

Let us know what you find.

Manifold leak cyl 1/2?

Spray some WD40/CRC around the manifold joins to see if it changes anything.

try a compression test and check tappets, maybe a sligthly blow head gasket or tight tappets. cheers