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Re: cost of paiting
Just can't stay away
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2010/12/27 4:36
From ashtonfeild maitland nsw
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thanks heaps for help btw nice job on the yellow coupe looks awsome

Posted on: 2011/1/12 0:25
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Re: cost of paiting
Home away from home
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Wire wheel work well huh! take some plain water & scrub off the rust converter, do it a few times, dry then sand again w/80 - 150 & your good to go. If its pitting try & work the water/brush down into the pits, sheet metal-should be a breeze. Then your metals ready for epoxy.

you can do the car in pieces as well - sand down to bare metal, prep properly then shoot that spot w/epoxy, move onto the next. If its in epoxy sitting outside wont matter as long as its out of the sun. Do not use a regular primer as it will allow moisture thru the paint, their not waterproof.

I'd suggest a small car cover for the dew, that'll help.

Spend time reading on the paint & body sites for technique & product info.

Posted on: 2011/1/11 17:04
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Re: cost of paiting
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i used coral/wire brush on drill it was awsome then i used that k&h rust converter on top

Posted on: 2011/1/11 6:27
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Re: cost of paiting
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its coverd in carport but still gets morning due and rust some little bits are pitted but most arent

Posted on: 2011/1/11 6:26
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Re: cost of paiting
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dam wish i new about the lead before i sanded it lol

Posted on: 2011/1/11 6:23
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Re: cost of paiting
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if all you have after blasting is some surface rust, not a big deal. No guarantee even that'll show up & if it does it can be sanded off w/a DA easily. WIll your car be inside? If so should be fine in bare metal. Mine sat in my garage for months as bare steel, no rust appeared.

If you have deep rust or pitting use a wire wheel on a drill & you'll be surprised how much will come out.

Start investigating paints to use, all the majors are going to be expensive, PPG, Dupont, etc.. I assume there are other brands over there that are just as good but less expensive, see if you can find those & as a rule dont use anything from a spray can.

Posted on: 2011/1/11 6:22
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Re: cost of paiting
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Steve- the B10 was made at the Zama truck factory so the metallurgy is
superior to later datsuns not to mention that some of them bound for
Europe where partly galvanised (Belgium models?) which was amazing if true.
There seems to be alot of lead content on the paint used so be careful
guys when sanding away.
Deoxidene or industrial Phosphoric acid is great for rust, providing
some rust in deeper sections if scrubbed well with a wire brush and this
acid, you will be able to really remove most, if not all the rust.
Best if possible is to strip your panels of all paint and undercoat and
get them galvanised or electro zincolumed. I did this to my guards and bonnet.

Posted on: 2011/1/11 5:11
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Re: cost of paiting
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yer im talking about the surface rust that im going to get sandblasted back to clean meatal and then seeing what paint to put on after

Posted on: 2011/1/11 3:48
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Re: cost of paiting
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From Kilsyth, Melbourne, Victoria
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Mate they're saying everything will rust again. It will always be there unless you cut it out and replace that section.

Posted on: 2011/1/11 2:21
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Re: cost of paiting
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is this stuff alright or is it one of the ones u were talking about that will rust again
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onli ... g.aspx?pid=125307#details

Posted on: 2011/1/11 2:20
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