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Yes, your battery is shot. Electronic ignition needs a halfway decent battery to run. In the four weeks it was sitting, the battery has gotten worse.

Hello again, I just got her running again this evening. I was waiting on the starter to be reconditioned since I was last here. Started first turn with a jump start but as soon as I took the jump leads off it started to backfire & miss before stalling. Jump started it again & it ran smooth but as soon as I took of the leads off it started to backfire again and stall. I know the battery is shot but before I done the head gasket it ran smooth after it was jump started? Any ideas guys as to what could be causing this.........

For the A-series, the torque spec is limited by the head bolts, rather than by the gasket type.

If you are using the A15 or later A12 ('13') head bolts, use the higher torque spec. If you have early A12 bolts, you must use the lower torque spec.

All early bolts should be replaced with the newer type. The newer bolts allow enough torque to almost guarantee you won't blow the head gasket (Production improvement).

the gasket set(VRS) you buy,should have torque specs in it, to suit there gaskets.

Thanks guys for all the help.... just looking at the link for changing the head gasket. I presume the torque pattern for my A15 is the same as the A12 and the torque spec for tightening I use is the A14 51-54 ft-lb?

rub surface with abrasive paper, wipe clean with thinners.

From the photo, I'd say you need to prep the block face better.

1. Get all traces of the old gasket scraped off (it looks like this has already been done)

2. Get all oil stuff off the block face. Chase it off with ether, then scrape some more. Use a gasket scrape (easier) or a chisel or sharp putty knife (requires more careful). Do likewise with the cylinder head face

3. Chase the head bolt threads with a tap. I use an old head bolt which i've cut a line lengthwise with a hacksaw blade. Spray with ether and blow it out by using a length of tubing.

4. When you put the headbolts in, do not drip oil into the bolt holes, or dip the bolts in oil. The bolts should be very lightly oiled (no extra oil, the existing old oil is usually enough) to obtain a correct torque.

See Changing Head Gasket for more details.

Also maybe pull the timing cover off and put a gasket on it and the water pump ,water could leak down into the sump if the timing cover has a leaky gasket

This is as clean as I can the block, acceptable? Looks pitted in places but feels smooth.

if the head is reasonably warped, then it may affect the valve seats as well, get them to check it for sealing.you can do a quick test yourself, by putting head on its side, filling up the ports up with a liquid like kero/petrol.see if it leaks at the valves,if leaks, then you will need the shop to re seat them.