It only happens when you put your foot down on the pedal to take up the slack -- that's when the throwout bearing contacts the clutch cover.

so the fingers on the cover may be worn unevenly. Not a problem if you don't notice while driving

will check if it does it in nuetral but I've only noticed it when I just take up the slack on my clutch pedel, so not really engaging the clutch just under load down around 3k or so. When you get to 4k+ it's silky smoooooooove

Good to hear that balancing the engine and loctite/doweling the flywheel is the go

What are the clutch vibration symptoms? For example does it only do it with the clutch pedal down? Does it do it on the road, or when revving in neutral?

So I was looking for something else in the search bar and this came up instead, so might as well give you all an update.

Lemonhead's crank was a real blessing and Bondi doweled it to another lightened A12 flywheel. We ended up modifying Opel Astra flywheel bolts to use (3 of them have the heads shaved down a socket size, loctited and torqued up tight. Rotating assembly was balanced.

It's been pretty good for the last few years but as I stretch out a serice interval I've noticed the clutch has a vibration around 3000rpm that goes away when you spin it faster. Should I give the clutch and flywheel a check over when I swap this whiney 56 series box out?

everything that's going back in that motor is getting balanced, another mistake I let happen by not hearing the full story

Thanks Rusty for this site link

http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm

its saved me a bundle with Suzuki bits I needed as Suzi charge more than a wounded elephant for the same items.

My Uncles solution pretty much solved all issues with flywheel bolts from A to Z series.

For the A I followed his advise after researching the qualities of Loctite 266 and to mark with chalk the old bolts and then torque them back on the flywheel leaving space for one of the new ones each time, this prevents the Loctite getting in between the flywheel and crank which can prevent proper torque readings.

For extra strength I noticed that only the A10 comes with 3 black carbon steel secure locking tabs for each pair of flywheel bolts to stop them coming loose (I havent noticed this for A12/14/15 I played with as never got a virgin one) yet used the same tabs on them in most cases.

These tabs with the Loctite 266 at 10psi higher than the recommended 65psi from factory has been very effective even with an idiot who bought one of my old B10s and revved it like a motorbike as he wanted to blow it up by taking it to 10k rpm all the time. Eventually a valve hit the pistons and it chewed itself up but flywheel bolts where still hard to remove until I heated them up a tad.

Never overtighten the factory rod bolts as you will get unlucky as they do stretch as Rusty has stated.

If possible clean up your flywheel and crank surface contact area really well so it has nothing but clean steel! if time permits spend a little time and money to get the flywheel rebalanced to make sure your rebuild gets the best possible chance of lasting for years of abuse :)

I haven't logged on for a while because I rarely look at this site anymore.

I recieved your crank the other day, would you like me to repair it and send it back or send you up the lighter crank?

Need an answer asap.

Edit: my email address has always been available on my account page.

lol

So that's how rusty wrench gets his bearing replaced and lubed, crap members sucking on his rusty hub...

...So Gary, you wouldn't of happened to get mah crank by now? should be a rule of membership that every member signs in at least once every couple of days at a minimum (not the crap members, they can go suck a rusty hub)