I'd pull the sump off and clean the pickup maybe even bend it down a touch..

But if the motor was making horrible noises youve probably done some damage..

Noticed the chain on the engine mount.... Some ones been pushing her hard....

My guess for what it's worth...
Blocked oil strainer at pick up in the sump.
If its been sitting for some time and the oil was crap before it was parked, it would surely had turned to sludge. Engine warms and off it goes in big blobs.
Kia's have the problem on a regular basis. (Change oil every 5k or else)
On the other side, if the oil was really crap when it was parked, then the engine is likely to be very tired indeed..

Adam

I've had oil pumps fail in the past with the bypass sticking open. Swap on a different oil pump. A-series oil pumps are externally mounted and only take a few minutes to change.

Other testing-

Remove the spark plugs to make the engine easy to spin and take the load off the bearings. Take out the oil pressure sender. Spin the engine with the starter motor and see if oil comes out the sender hole. If no oil comes out you have a dead pump.

With the new oil filter you may need to fill it completely full of oil to get the pump to prime. I've never had an issue with priming but you have to cover all the bases.

Don't run the engine (only spin with starter motor) until you know that oil is getting pumped, then put an oil pressure gauge in place of the oil pressure switch to check if you are getting oil pressure.

It will take a long time for oil to show up and be visible through the oil fill cap.

I know for sure its not getting oil pressure as we took the oil cap off with it running and no oil was at top of motor. So to make sure the channels werent clogged we put a new oil filter on and it stayed dry so the pump isent pumping. And it was making horrible noise which is why we started checking for oil at the top of the motor. However the first few times we had it running it didnt sound bad at all so maybe it just went out between getting it running and now.

Welcome aboard,

A couple of things to share. First the clutch master and slave might total all of $50- 75 to replace. As for the lack of oil pressure, it could be as simple as the gauge as suggested. These engines will rattle like mad with no oil pressure. Grab a book if need be but check to make sure it is functioning.

As for the engine swap, if you weld and fab then it could be done very cheaply if not then not. One of the big attractions of the 1200 is they are very light. For not to many dollars you could get swap in a A14 or A15, which bolt right in, which would mean 85-95 HP depending of state of tune. Look at the motor swaps on tech-wiki and you'll see that many of them way much more than the A series engine, the car will be faster but that snappy turn in that makes these fun cars will be gone. A KA is almost 200lbs heavier, it weighs as much as the VG30 V6. Now even if the A series needs a rebuild if nothing is damaged the rings, bearing and gaskets can be had for $200-300 if not less. 1200's are cheap to fix.

Now with all that said there is absolutely nothing wrong taking a cheap to be had KA24 and sticking it in the car. Bone stock to 7 second drag cars to 150 mph track cars are all appreciated here.

Tom

Welcome, nice little car.

It could be that the oil pressure gauge or OIL light is disconnected. If the pressure is truly zero it will make a LOT of noise.

KA24 is the least expensive 150HP swap in USA.

Hello everyone. I am now a Datsun owner and have very little knowledge on them. I came across this page / forum and decided to sign up since it was the most useful and complete resource site I have found so far.

The Datsun I bought is a '73 1200 / B110. It has been here locally for some time and nobody has yet to get it running. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time with a guy needing some money and picked it up on the cheap. I have always liked the car seeing it around and wanted it ever since I can remember.

Here is a little history from what I know on the car. When I bought it the guy said he knew the valves needed to be adjusted for sure. So I got in and adjusted them to spec. Did some other maintenance things like fuel filter and compression check and such. After which we tried to see if she would run to which our suprise it did. However since it had been sitting for so long the clutch master and slave were both gummed up. Which brings me to now where last time we cranked it there was no oil pressure. My thinking is instead of going though everything being gummed up and replacing it all to just go ahead and go with a motor swap. I have been looking a little into the KA24's and the SR20's. I dont have an unlimited budget as I have 2 other projects beside this car, so what would be the best budget friendly yet still decent swap for shows.

I am also in the United States so some of the engines may not be available here that some AUS and EU people do.