update on TD3 redid the panel gaps on the two back doors, panel gaps are much better and due to getting pliers oput on the drip rails, apart from a dolly and a slide hammer, car is a LOT better than I'd remembered... NO need for a roof skin change, miniml rust behind the back wheels, I *DO* deed to redo the boot floor (debating having the spare tyre well reinstated or going for a flat boot floor...

hell even thought I was up for 2 guards, but I can deal with a repro LHF and a patch panel on the RHF one, bonnet has a rather large rust hole at the right front of it though...

plan is to go tho that dark green metallic as seen on VE holden commodores...

after that.. getting it REGISTERED!

rebuild I have Planned for TD3 includes rust repair, fixing the damage what dad picking it up with the front end loader (drip rails got pushed up in front and in behind of the B pillar) and getting it roadworthy, could probably find a better shell to do it to, but it's a 60,025 KM shell (the original odo is stuck at 60,025 Kilometres, and the steering box still has the paper bit on it... also brought it back from a stripped out shell so sentimentally attached to it...

umming and aahing about setting the front end up as per B-210 ie 180B style front suspension, or stanza... but TD3 has reconned (Aussie spec PBR brakes on it... which the Original defect should have had but it had Jap spec struts on it...

hoping bluebird steelies setup with neutral offset should clear the struts AND the guards have bluebird steelies in standard offset and they fit but don't allow the wheels to turn... after it's still got an A12 in it not anything... lunatical... just need to find rims that allow tyres theat I can get new.... one tyre I had was an '82, the other was a '77 manufacture.... and 12" rims on the front and 14" on the back is probably a bit too big a rake for legalities in Western Australia... hehe

funny thing is drive line WAS intentionally beefed up for a nice A15, but the a12 it has in it works nicelyjust need to find a way of getting better tyres on the front as 12" rims are unobtanium in Western Australia now, and once you have 14" rims on a 120Y/B-210 it's Datsun Sunny Excellent roots become VERY obvious!

The Defect is a legend ... keep the series going!

should have been clearer, I used an automatic (3N71B) Gearbox mount.... dad altered the rearmost (exhaust hanger) mount to get the gearbox to bolt up as we did NOT have a manual mount at the time... and have since had to replace the mount with another one, as I broke the left front and gearbox mounts while gearbox was in the original "Defect" and damaged the mounting pad (had to use exctra large washers to hold the gearbox still when I put it in The Defect III howevwr will be regoing over how I did it when I resurrect TD3 again soon...

I had planned to use TD3's original H145 (it's a July '74) with a H150 centre but the axles would not come out, so I pulled the complete BW68 out of the original Defect, wheels and all out and bunged that in...

Here's something else to add to the tech wiki, the early model BW sedan diffs use the same yoke pattern as the H145 and H165 diffs, and also the same brakes as the H145. The late model diff yoke mounting face also sits around 20mm further forward from the center of the axles than the H145.

H145 + H165 53 x 45 x 57 centre

BW 120Y Late Model Sedan 60 x 48 x 46 centre

I'll measure the tailshafts next week, forgot to take a tape measure with me

I'll go measure all my diffs and tailshafts in an hour or so.

H145: 36 x 50 mm bolt holes. 38mm inner circle

H150: 45 x 54 mm. Inner circle 57 mm

H165: 45 x 54 mm. Inner circle 57 mm

H165 from A10: rectangular flange
H150 from B310: larger round flange

H150 from Datsun B310 vs H165 from 1978 Datsun A10

Attach file:

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  H165_H145.JPG (114.51 KB)

I'll measure my dimensions if you measure yours...

Measure the bolt-pattern dimensions, it is more accurate than a look comparison.