Its ok I like the in out wiggle

Lube the escort and the rattle wont go away. its because of the small insertion, too much free play (side to side) :)

No I don't think a cheap new York escort is my rattle. Might be my lube

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Ok new spigot clutch plate throw out bearing, transmission. Retorqued fly bolts..... The rattle came back in N after a 5km drive!

This has got me stuffed! IM not pulling box.again til summer. IM wondering if its the fingers on clutch.cover now. Not holding plate on fly fully in neutral. Its only thing I can think of unless I torqued fly wrong. No vibrations or wobbles though

HA HA Was going to mention the grease thing in the spigot to. Wouldnt weld anything to it mate I've seen to many people stuff boxes by doing that. Just that little to much heat and problems begin. Take it to a mechanic and ask them to remove it they have all the gear.

ok, too clutch out to change spigot bush- you know they are only $4 at nissan lol. $15 each from other parts suppliers lol.
same part number for all l series, ca and rb 30 too(well thats what the nissan guy told me- theres a tip)

so took clutch off and glad i did, found this damage to clutch spings


no damage to flywheel that i could see but that side of clutch faces the fly wheel. so there is a potential rattle.
only spare clutch plate i have is a 4 puck brass solid center jobby. in its going.

so packed the end of crank where spigot is with grease by finger (i dont have a grease gun still) and tapped in the input shaft. poped out the spigot, but only half came out...wtf. regreased tapped in sahft again rest comes out


now hydraulic lock wont cause that to happen that i know of so spigot was shot (slightly out of round too) glad i took it out, need to put new one in later but is soaking in fluid overnight to help it in.

so i undid the flywheel, bolt by bolt,cleaned the thread and re loc tighed it.... it wason tight so i shouldnt have worried but good to check and wasnt too hard to do. torqued it up to 110ft lb (what a pita)


so thought id set up stumpy for insertion. my practice is to make sure gbox fill and drain plugs can come out before i put a box in.
fill bolt was tight, but got it off easy enough. drain pulg was slightly rounded and tight. looked like some kind of sealer on it. sprayed wd40 and let soak for 1 hour. tried to undo, no go. thought nip it up 1/8 turn then try. no good. thought id try tapping with my newly aquired nylon hammer to shock then breaker bar, no good and it strited the block bit in the pulg!!! F@%$#



now how do i get it out? just weld a block of steel or a socket onto it and try crack the seal? heat up the nut with a butane torch as well?
ive got a spare plug on another 63a... the measure the same, so should work. im at a loss now. it was rounded slightly before but now ive stuffed it... help!

Yeah while in car mik. Also you can use a long thinnish bolt with a button head on it like an Allen key or Phillips head one and grab it with a pair of multi grips. Just drop the head over the inside edge of spigot bush and same thing gently in and out round and round.

I'd feel more confident after I retorqued the bolts to spec. No need to remove the flywheel, as you can loosen and re-torque the bolts one at a time.

I've got a torque wrench. Just not confident with fly wheel as never done one before. So as mechanic reckons ok IM reluctant to take it off.