Can I second what Pigdog said about the bolt-in crossmembers?

The first time Nick told me that I thought he was full of s*it. Since then I have used bolt in x-members for two engine swaps and am unhappy with both of them. The engines just don't sit where I want.

And, again as Pigdog said, efi L-series in a 1200 is teh sex.

elemental_funk, i spent $1500 when i first did the CA18DE+t converstion into my 1200 sedan and i had to piece together all the turbo stuff and flywheel and clutch from many different people so that made it cost more. i did already have the gearbox and radiator in there from the L series that was in before it. also had suspention and brakes sorted but i dont really count that as part of the conversion cost as everyone should be upgrading their brakes in a 1200, and the diff comes with power, you dont need to upgrade it but if you have a certain level of power you will probably start breaking them no matter what engine it is
in saying that though, i have since spent an extra say $3000+ to get it to the point where i want it, full forged rebuild, bigger turbo, better manifold, tune and so on.

I'd say CA is actually an easier conversion to do as far as mechanical stuff is concerned (in a 1200) given they are smaller. but in a 120y the larger size of the L series probably isnt an issue

i wouldnt go any of the bolt in crossmembers as i doubt any of them will really sit the engine in an awesome position, and making new mounts on the crossmember isnt really at all hard

a built turbo A series or L series would be pretty cool, a well made injection/turbo setup on an L series sitting in a 1200 (or 120y) engine bay would look quite nice in my opinion

and I'd agree with you that money, or skill and equiptment to offset the need to spend money, is a large part of what engine goes into most cars

I know what ur saying but even with the l motor ul still need 2 change half of that stuff like suspension and brakes cos if u make it go it has to be able to stop. Im not trying to say its cheaper either. Its just my thoughts that if ur gonna go through half of that anyway why not go the whole way and have a newer motor. Plus if u really didnt wanna do wiring im sure u could carb it just to be different. But theres lots of reasons for all the motors that every1 could argue all day so it is really preference. And of course money will be a factor.

there might be a bit more to it than personal preference, it would take a lot of commitment doing a ca18 swap. Just about everything needs to be changed; fuel, diff, wiring and cables, brakes, suspension, crossmembers and mounts, hydraulic lines, it goes on. I would like to see what some folks have spend on their conversions (or perhaps they don't want to know themselves)

I agree with what you guys are saying the ca18 is an ugly motor. But its also reasonbly modern compared to the l series donk. if you wanted to beable to pop the bonnet and have a good looking motor for the car then may as well stay a series. they can look quite good and tidy. As previously stated though its all really down to personal preferance and what you want from your car.

yep stock is good but they are so cheap might as well build a peppy one on the side Z20E rods and Z22E slugs cost bugger all not to mention the flooded classifieds of go fast bits for them.

The only nissan donk with 5 different heads for all uses.

eg.
L series non crossflow stock 8v can go to:

Ka24e 12 valve SOHC hydro lifters
Ka24DE 16 vave DOHC solid lifters
Z18ET turbo 8v solid lifters
NA20 crossflow roller rocker 8v

what is the easiest way to separate boot rubber crimp? Gotta rare spares boot seal and looks like you have to separate crimp to get it on, then put it on and use pliers or something to crimp back on. Anyway its gonna take me ages the way im doing it, screwdriver all the way down it.

Keep it stock as is. Will be more than enough compared to a15. Engines already built D

I agree CAs have their place for easy hp but they arent the prettiest of engines if you care for that matter. For me they are a pretty ugly looking thing with their factory manifolding and separate square boxy rocker covers. Its like a square sharp edged engine in a coke bottle car that deserves more curves for its heart.

L20B all the way but with Z22E pistons and Z20E rods makes them rev like an L16.

Z22E rods 152.5mm pistons 32.1mm comp height 87mm diameter
Rod stroke ratio 1.773

L20B rods 145.9mm pistons 38.1mm comp height maybe 40grams more
Rod stroke ratio 1.697

The 2045cc is a common combo w/ L series crowd almost 100cc extra

I disagree. he has access to a mild L20 cheap and no wiring mods needed really for L20b. rewire alt to bypass external regulator elec dizzy too.

Petrol will be same. No efi no messy computers or surge tanks. Heaps of parts for l series out there too.
Looks stock compared to CA too

CA have their place, I think its not needed for thus project.