Jesse will the officials at the track let you run without a bonnet? If so, taking it off for passes would be a quick fix to reduce engine bay temps.

The pressed metal impellors on water pumps are ok, but can cause cavitation at high speed.

Going from your first post, the pinging is definatly heat related. plugs wont fix it unless you are using a heat range far too hot and they are causing preignition.

When you are doing a burnout, the combution chambers, valves and pistons get very hot, regardless of what your temp guage says. Detonation is caused by either too much heat or too much pressure for a given octain rating fuel.

Because the problem only shows up after you have been under heavy load for a while, you need to help dump heat or retard ignition timing.

To help with heat, you have a few choices. Increase water flow through the engine while increasing water pressure(increase pump efficiency and run 16Lb+ cap). Dont run glycol coolant! Use a water wetter(like the one from Redline). Or as Lamb_daiquiri has mentioned use water injection or a octain booster.

If it was mine, the first things i would try is-

Pull 2-3 deg timing, drain any glycol and swap for water wetter and put on a 16psi cap. Put a cooler thermostat in it. Make sure the fuel mixtures are plenty rich under load.

Water injection doesnt make power by itself. It does cool thing down, which allows leaner mixtures and more timing that then make the extra power.

Can someone tell me what the problem is with running a resister plug?

AFAIK all it does is filter any interference. Surely heat range would make a greater difference than BP or BPR?




(and just so i feel smart, the P means "Projected Core" on NGK plugs. The bit that sticks out past the thread...)

Water injection will be similar to higher octane fuel. A rough guide is to inject water at 70% of the fuel flow rate. Simon could be on the money with vapour lock though. Try lagging (insulating) your fuel lines.

ok well ive got bp plugs coming and hopefully that will sort out the pinging :D

would water/methanol injection help much ? would give a slight power boost aswell as lower chamber temps

BP and BPR may look same, but actually it is not. BPR is resistor plug.

You can get 20 litre drums of Toulene from your local Paint supply depot or distributor,i get mine from Wattyl Paint Depot,$77.00!It works out approx $2.05 liter mixed depending how much you pay for 98 fuel.I mix 4 lt toulene with 16 lt 98 fuel.

Awesome fellas

i went to buy new plugs and was told bpr plugs were the same as normal bp plugs

ill definitely change the plugs today

as for fuel i only ever run bp 98 , sometimes i add octane booster but it does do much apart from make my plugs orange ! Haha

what gap should i be running them aswell? .8?
diff is the next thing im going ,looking at getting a ute diff shortened ,as im running a h145 locked at the moment


where can i buy toulene? Just a panel and paint shop ?

Also the water pump is new ,does it have to be te cast impeller? also what do you mean by high pressure cap ? Would a 13psi cap be enough?

Thanks everyone!

I am running A15 with 12.5-1 comp ratio and i mix 20% toulene with 98 octane fuel to boost "RON" to approx 102,that sorts pinging out quick smart.You could try some octane booster from your local automotive supply stores i.e. autobarn,supercheap etc.That would be a cheap way to check if it sorts it out or not!Also depending on winter/summer conditions i do use BP5EY/BP7EY respectively.Hope this can be some help.

The other thing it could be is, fuel vapourising in the lines after a long burnout causing high under hood temps.