does any one know where i can get a A14 replacement block sleeve? thanks

Simon is on the money.

With regard to port matching, and opening up the oval port heads in general, it starts (for streeters) with getting rid of the weak links. If the valve diameter is enough to support 150bhp (for example) and the 'main' straight section of the port flows enough to support 160bhp or more, then going much larger on valve size (at this stage) or main port size just won't return any gains. what it might in fact do is drop velocity and reduce mid range torque, with no gain up top.

THe vast majority of the work has to be around the valve/seat area and teh valve guide area, the bowl (the port area around the valve seat) and the short turn radius. For a streeter, you realistically won't need (or want) to touch the main port straight sections at all.

In terms of port matching, get them 'close' but leave it (if material permits) with the intake manifold runner exits being about 0.5mm smaller than the head port entry. This won't affect flow in teh 'right' direction, but that tiny step will help work against flow 'reversion' (flow trying to go in the reverse direction). This won't add power at peak rpms, but down lower where longer cam duration adn later intake valve closing leads to less output (less cylinder filling due to some intake reversion) well that 'step' can help a lot. On a cam that might otherwise not come into its sweet spot till (say) 3500rpm, you might be able to get it on song by 3250rpm. That doesn't sound like much but that is _massive_ on a streeter, esp with stock gearbox gear ratios where you have to hold a gear and drop the rpms lower than you might otherwise like to (since the next gear down has the engine screaming too much).

Do a bit of a search on google about 'dynamic compression ratio' which helps to explain the difference between static compression ratio as measured and what the engine will actually do in practice (esp at lower rpms). basically you tailor the cam and static compression ratio to one another, the bigger the cam, the more comp you can run on a given fuel (within reason, and remember you need more low-mid range output so going too big on the cam is not the answer, it's about a 'balanced' approach)

On which note (compression ratio) if it isn't a daily driver but more of a 'fun' streeter, depending on your local area, give e85 (or whatever the pump version is) a thought. Yes the pump fuel stuff will vary down to about 75% ethanol, but if you tune for e85 in general, you can run much much higher compression ratios safely, so you could go to a point safely lower than the max you could run on e85, but much higher than on pump 98 high octane, and be safe as can be even when the ethanol content is lower.

Let's say your engine combo with a particular cam will run safely on 98 octane with 11:1 compression. On e85 it might be able to run as much as 12.5-13:1 safely. If you went with 12:1 then even with less than 85% ethanol you'll be completely safe. And relatively cheap compared to 98 octane to fill up.

Yes the a/f ratio with e85 needs to be a fair bit richer, but the hidden plus is the considerable hike in compression ratio in and of itself produces significant gains in fuel economy, so as long as you don't get ridiculous, it will get enough fuel economy to do club runs and the like without too much trouble.

When it comes to NA power, yep, more capacity is almost always the go. However you can get to a point where with too long of a stroke, there's a lot more sidethrust on the bore walls when the crank is at about 90 degrees and the rod is at maximum angularity. This pushes against the bore wall in a sideways direction and will accelerate wear and compromise ring/bore seal. So you can eventually get to a point where you lose power. On a similar note, going too big on an overbore can bring in the same thing. This time not caused by increased rod angularity, but instead by a thinner bore wall more prone to flexing.

Absolutely if I was looking for some hypothetical 'best output from NA series no matter what' setup, then I'd be guessing that around 1650-1700cc (achieving as much as possible though boring and sleeving the block to suit the biggest bore I could fit, but knowing that boring that far just to fit the oversize sleeves will result in stronger bore walls but the block rigidity itself will start to be compromised a lot, so it won't be a 'long lived' engine) and achieving the rest via stroke increase - probably not beyond 84mm. The problem with all this is it won't be a practical or long lasting streeter.

So with all that in mind, a std a14 or a15 block (a14 if it helps with rego) overbored to the next size (just to clean it up, presumably it's a s/hand engine with miles on the clock so won't just freshen up with a light hone) and a15 internals would be 'the go'. Get the head 'pocket ported' (which is typically the name given to mods in the areas I stated above, and by the way this will get you about 85-90% of the flow that that head is capable of, from the first few hours of porting work. To get much more flow, you'd need probably 2-3 times as much labour time for just those few extra percent. Not justifiable on a streeter.

If you do go to e85 *(and this goes for normal petrol spec heads too, but even more so for ethanol since there's more fuel being fed in there for the same amount of air) make sure nobody polishes the intake ports, it'll gain nothing on a flowbench, and in practice the smoother surfaces encourage fuel to stick to the port walls a lot more, so rougher surfaces lead to better fuel suspension in the airflow, a more consistent distribution of fuel, and more consistent/advantageous combustion. win win, so to speak.

Off Topic D" Thanks for spotting that car at center rd wreckers. Had everything I needed...Cheers

Lemonhead has gone 82mm sleeves on his racing engine and said it he could easily have gone to 83mm but wanted that extra for the next rebuild, however his engine builder said he should just go wet sleeve meaning you can just remove the sleeves for new ones when rebuilding if machined to take an silicon composite o-ring instead of cementing. His engine was supposed to be built for 8500-9000rpm.

Sleeved engines have no issues revving to what they are built for and are just as reliable as non-sleeved engines if you look at the renault sierra turbo R5 or the old R12 theres one at pick a part your way now in Kylsith a wagon ran perfect was for sale at the front but no one bought it so its in the yard. The A15 like all others A series has very thick casting unlike modern cast iron engines they were over-engineered so theres definitely room for this modification.

FERCO quoted me 500 for the full sleeve job cemented but could cost up to 650 with o-ringed base, then on every rebuild you just need new sleeves slid in using a step & o-ring like on the renault pushies which r just like A series in design bar wet sleeves. New sleeves $80 or $120 ea. machined + honing same price for renault sierra engines.

A big bore A15 leaves little room for rebuilds, stick to 77mm if you want cheap.

Dodgeman worked out an A15 offset stroker of extra 1mm (83mm) is possible if crank is within tolerances can use the undersized factory bearings. Using the A15 is no dramas as they are often milled for the A12 engines using A14 cranks with either a14/15 rods. A15 slugs comp height are 30mm and can go to 29mm but depending on cam you need to check for valve clearances of course. Rod pins are 19mm while ca20de slugs are 20mm and same compression height of 30mm with plenty of meat. Isuzu pistons are flat tops 28.2mm comp height pics below for comparisons I had for a while. Pics in order isuzu, ca18de & a15

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  isuzu 4MKRY8053.jpg (38.86 KB)


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  datsun a15 4KRY2831 piston.jpg (42.51 KB)

D, that sure does sound expensive!! The thing id be worried about by going so big with the a15 is i would want it reliable for the future, by trying to get that much out of an a15 i cannot see its life being very long... and more so it would need constant rebuilds, im hoping to have my motor only needing a rebuild every say 2 years or so, maybe longer...
I know using webers is probably a pain because of the need for constant tuning, buttttt ive always wanted them so thats what im going to use haha.

I would have thought the same thing Nickmitty, the old 4 speeds dont have much meat on them. Im hoping to do the dellow conversion for the celica box later on down the track.
As for the turbo SC side of things, for now i would like to leave it NA perhaps down the track a nice turbo set up would be sick.

I like your thinking with not boring it too much Sikyne, does leave the engine with plenty more chances to rebuild, in saying that id still like to bore it out to 1550-1600. However if boring it to that means it really does reduce rebuild times hugely id be happy to go with the std bore size.
I was hoping to have the engine rev to around 7500-8000 rpm, i would have thought 8000 may be a little much, but i would be keen to get it up around the 7500 mark. In saying that if i were to aim for that rpm where abouts will my came begin to come on? As well as that would you recommend modifying my current wade 140 to be a little more suitable?
Also i have a set of stewart wilkins extractors which seem to be very nice, the exhaust thats on the ute atm is fairly new it has a hot dog about half way with a muffler toward the end width is 1 and 3/4 inch from memory.

Whats the cost on a set of arp bolts going to set one back?

And if i were to bore out the oval ports and match port a manifold would that be something to look at?

Keeping the bore close to standard leaves plenty of material in the bore for rebuilds down the track. leaving the stroke standard means you can run the standard rods.
Good Hp is made by getting the engine to shift alot of air. It can be done with capacity, but the top end will still be the limiting factor.
It becomes a Cost/Hp balance. Personally, for the bottom end i`d go A15, standard crank, rods(closed and honed with new arp bolts)and flat top cast pistons 76.5mm.
The H98 head is a good one and the standard valve sizes are big enough with the right cam to about 7500rpm. The Wade 140 will fall over before that but is good on the street. You will probably want more duration on the cam for track use.
Your idea of the twin 40`s and elctronic Ign is good. You will have to keep your exhaust fairly open if you want the best from a cam with a bit of overlap.

The A14 and A15 blocks are the same from what i can tell. So the A15 crank, rods and pistons will go straight into the A14 Block. It might be less problems for rego. I cant see any other reason for doing it tho.

Remember to send a set of followers to Wade to be resurfaced when you get a cam done. Its only about $30 to get them done.

Hey D, a 1796cc with quads wouldnt rev past 5-5500rpm.. where's the fun in that ?? Sure it would have a bit of grunt, but I see it chewing up a few gearboxes. Mad yes, Monster..on ya wallet !! You'd get the same hp or very close to, with a S/C or turbo and alot cheaper. And probably more reliable. But at the same time it would be a interesting project.

A15 is the best, unless you are looking at getting by laws by using an A14 so then just use the A15 internals and sump or counterweights smack the sides of A14 sump.
Offset sleeved to 83mm using ca18de pistons and have the tops machined for valve clearances and to suit combustion chambers. Probably best use ca18det pistons for 10.5:1 max comp by using one of Pjz Gx head he has advertised for sale cheaply.
Offset stroke the 82mm crank to 83mm and you have 1796cc or just 1775cc stock.
Custom head gasket from AAA gaskets in composite material are good one off units.
You might need to o-ring the block for that extra reliability.

1796cc with 41mm quad bike carbs would be a mad little monster.

Good suggestion levey, but from a learning point of view and just the fact, i would like to build a motor myself..!!

Just buy an engine from Bige, check the classifieds.