Yep a combined weight saving of all the items mentioned is not a bad thing for those looking for that little advantage in racing. For street steel is the deal and lucky 1200 people are spoilt for choice.

38 lbs is a lot for a body panel. The stock hood weighs only 30 lbs.

Weight is the key 38lbs sounds pretty good, rust free for life, skipping breakfast I dont think so, Hunger makes a worse enemy than weight.

My front renders are fiberglass. I bought them years ago I think from Peter Z. back in the Midwest. I didn't weigh them before I put them on so I can't tell you the weight difference on mine.
I rattle can sprayed them flat black. With a wet sand and buff, they came out looking nice. I like that flat black front end look.

Composites have a lot of variation so "Fiberglass" usually is taken to mean glass fibers embedded in styrene plastic. Sometimes epoxy is used as the matrix and of course other fibers are used. It amounts to important differences for the end user.
Styrene is stiffer than epoxy. Kevlar and carbon fiber give a stiffer layups than glass.

Composites although very strong are unfortunately flexible, so builders commonly use thicker material to compensate for the flexibility of "fiberglass". An option to increased thickness is the inclusion of stiffening ridges, compound curves in surfaces and foam core panels.

Steel structures are thin for lightness(and economy) and are stamped into compound curves and reinforced in other ways to produce a rigid stable shape.

The best shape for a steel structure may not be the best shape for a composite structure, so do not expect them to be the same.

I like working with composite bodies as changes are so easily made, but do not expose them to a lot of heat and stress as they can change shape.

OK I meant to post when this went up last week and got side tracked:

For the record the stock fenders are 6 lbs the fiberglass ones I have are 2 lbs each..........save 8

Stock hood is 30lbs and the fiberglass unit weighs 10 lbs.........save 20

Stock trunk lid is 12 lbs and fiberglass is 4 lbs.........save 8

36 lbs is decent, you'd have to eat alot of fiber to shed that but the weight saving would equate to 1.2 horsepower.

Tom

My metal repro guards are definetely better than stock. They don't bend when you lean over to work on engine bay. I bought em second hand but the dude said they were from panelhouse at slacks creek(QLD). Price and quality are great. Not worth the panel beating on the old ones. I'm getting doors, 1/4 panels, front apron and sills for under $1000. Worth it for no rust. Glass foward tilt front end would be sweet though. $$$ might hurt.

fair enough - I didn't know about the other guards. The pic I posted (I've got another couple of a bonnet and the front air dam (same as in the above pic) by itself off the car) was one of the pics they sent me, when I emailed them, probably around 4-5 years ago. Does their facebook page have pics of the guards with the more modestly sized arches/flares?

Maddat sell genuine guards, the repo ones I got were crap

Jmac i was mainly refering to the stock guards they make as supafatto is talking about.

So are all the eBay ones pretty much the same or is there some out there that are better (by better I mean, quality, fitment or less flimsy) than others?

I bought some repro ones years ago back when I was living Adelaide but no idea who, what, or where they came from.

Surely things have changed a bit since then.