how old is the motor it might have jump a tooth on the timing, sound like internal to me.

You are doing things mostly right but it certainly is frustrating.

There are a few more things which can cause trouble but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the distributor.

1. check for continuity of the small wire between the points and the coil. It should have less than an ohm resistance.
After checking it wiggle it a little and check again.

2. The advance mechanism in many distributors is controlled by fine springs which resist the pull of spinning weights. Things get strange if a spring breaks.

3. It is far less trouble to check the ignition timing than to take the distributor apart. You have to adjust the timing in any case as you worked with the points. Check the timing.
It is also under vacuum control and that hose should be squeezed shut when testing timing or the numbers will be way off.

Electrical problems are usually on or off,but sometimes they be intermittent.

The 30 second runs do sould like a fuel-related issue as they repeat so evenly. It can run a little while on a floatbowl of fuel, but not very long.

Valve timing chains can jump and make an engine stop, but they usually don't change back and forth so the engine runs and stops again and again.

An anti-dieseling solenoid is supposed to shut it off.
So if it was acting up it would be a prime suspect. If there is one there, remove it, remove its "pin" and replace the solenoid valve.

For the short time it runs, does it run normally?

Persist. You will solve it.

As this is not my ute its smitty93's and im just a mate helping him..

As of yet i have still not changed the antideiseling solinoid or checked the timing

Have checked.
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not fouling

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checked it multiple times its not fouling and is seated correctly and getting power

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Yes no difference

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yea fuel to carb swapped carb and manifold and also fuel pump and fuel filter and swapped around to test different scenario's

Everything has been done at least three times now (refer to earlier post's to see what has been done) and even checking things i usually wouldn't (i.e bad fuel) only two things i have not done is timing (which i for the car to be running fine then just jolt around and then die i can't just see it throw the timing) but in saying that still to check and anti dieseling solenoid..

All earth's are fine car tries to start no issues but will only start once a fair amount of fuel has gone in and throttle is on then only stays on for 30 seconds on then stall's which makes me think fuel or air but changed the fuel pumps and checked the gasket's (diaphram) no leaks and fuel shows to be fine and working with same pressure when not connected but going into a pot instead of carby air pressure into carby is a constant and no more or less than normal

If the problem took place suddenly and changing the points helped. It is electrical. The 30 second run is possibly a different problem. Is fuel getting into the carb? Check the little window in the carb , it should be right to the center.

Have you tried, swapping out the coil also.

hey mate,

Just a suggestion,

Try and check/confirm that the wire(usually black) which goes from the points to the power in the dizzy is not in contact with any part of the dizzy housing.(i hope that makes sense)
if the wire is even slightly in touch with the housing it will cause the car to crank but not start.That might also be why the car probably started and drove normally for a while after touching the points.

remove that wire make sure its in good nick and when re-installing them back make sure they dont have contact with the housing.there is usually a plastic "bit/part" which stops the wire from touching the housing.
also replace the condensor if u already haven't.
I usually add another bigger condensor from the peugout 504 to the a-series one and they run well.

Hopefully that was the problem...

cheers

We understand your dilemma buddy. We are just trying to help with the process of elimination. Your saying it gets fuel, and now you've swapped the points you get spark. That just leaves idle and timing(especially if you've swapped the manifold and are not getting excessive air.
So it basically boils down to 2 main points to check and sort, before we get into the nitty gritty of this tiny piece or that tiny piece.

You said it was running ok, the bucked and not doesn't run? Honest truth in all my years of playing with cars, Ive found sometimes the simplest and smallest thing can upset everything..

As another idea too is pulled the spark plugs, and check for fouling..

the anti dieseling solenoid has not been swapped to a spare it was breifly checked its wired fine, and timing not checked

the manifold has been swapped and swapped the carburetor and swapped back and forth for testing, checked the earths on the points when done the wire was stripped i replaced the wire and checked the condenser, we have swapped out the fuel pump, checked out the relay's, checked the fuses... by passed the ballist resistor, changed the coil and lead's, new spark plugs

We even dumpped all the fuel in case it was bad fuel

the points made a difference and gap's are set (ute will actually start) but as daniel (smitty93) said wont run unless given throttle and even so will not run correctly at all, but from my perspective as i was in the car when this happened the ute was running perfect didnt miss a beat then just jolted a couple times then decided that was it so i can't see that it has just thrown the timing out...

ill swap over the anti dieseling valve see how it goes

Did you check the anti dieseling solenoid? cause if its faulty the car will not idle or run without your foot on the pedal. Also the above comments and is your coil and resistor in good condition?

Check your timing..