Jobs Right Mate, I found a real good Honest Auto Sparky. He pulled out the brush holder and they where really stuffed. He replaced and put a new bearing in etc. Now good as gold !! All for $60au , I think thats good as I did nothing at all but take the ute to his place and watch & learnd.

As it turned out the Alter was from a Bluebird, and who ever put it in wired it wrong ( used regulator in engine bay , and the ALT has one in it as well) so the Sparky bridged it or something and now it really pump's amps.

All I need to do now is play with the Idle screw a bit to get it to idle a bit quicker , when it ides now it really shakes the hell out of my ute, so a slightly quicker idle will be the go .

Regards
Andrew
amshaw

Aah, that might just work for a while. Although for best performance, slow the alternator down, not up! That's what "underdrive pulleys" do.

Tightening up the belt made the light come on? Sounds like omething is wrong with that alternator.

About the diodes, one time one of our Toyota alternators had a bad diode and it caused the battery to go low overnight. I cut the lead to that diode and continued to drive it. I'm sure the voltage output wasn't as smooth (two instead of three) but the car seemed to run fine ... might be something to remember if you are out in the backcountry and a replacment isn't available.

Dragongoose, calm down. Remember, you have to take the celophane off the cigar before you smoke it!

hahaha I just had a thought imagine if the pulley is a larger one suited to V8 or something hehehe might need a smaller one so it is at the correct rpm per voltage...lol
I am just babbling and I am tired but I had a laugh...just imagine...I know I would be cursing an spitting...hahaha who the flaming hell would do this......aaaaarrrgghhh after checking everything and buying a new alternator you notice the pulleys are different.........GGGRRRRR hehehe JUst a JOKE

Hi Andrew

I have had a similar problem with my b310 engine three month ago. The engine stoped when i break and sometimes the batery light turned on. I tryed a lot of things but I only managed to minorate it. One day I was at a gas station and when I turned on the ingnition key the batery light doesn

G'Day All,
Sorry guys I forgot to thank you all for the idea's/help !!

Regards
amshaw

I tested that battery and Alt at idle and it was a bit over 13 Volts. I stuffed around at the back of the ALT and made sure all wire's where tight etc but I touched the power nut on the bottom and the fuel line, got a boot and pulled the guts out of the small wire from the battery. Took a while to find it aswell.

I tightend up the fan belt but found that the ALT light stayed on almost all of the time. So I backed it off and its back to giving a little rev for the light to go out.

I have a mate who is an auto sparky I might ask for "mate's Rate's" job ( a few Beers) , but I dont like to ask for help. But I may have to as I have never pulled an ALT apart before. And have a bad habbit of throwing stuff around when things go wrong !!

Regards & Thanks
amshaw

Quote:
Yes, this means the vacuum advance diaphragm is not leaking. The engine slows down from the leak (when you take the hose off). It doesn't tell if the advance is working (advancing) ... becuase the advance shouldn't "work" at an idle. It works above idle if correctly hooked up. Not to worry though, it sounds good.

The voltage should be 13.5-14.5 volts at 1200 rpm or above.

Over 14.5 is overcharging, replace the regulator.

It shouldn't drop below 12 volts at idle. If it does, make sure the belt is tight enough. Also check the brushes in the alternator, they are just a few dollars. If they are warn too much, revving it up will work for a while, until they wear more when it stops for good. You can tell by how far they stick out when the alternator is apart. To put it back together, use a straightened paper clip to hold the brushes back.

As pointed out, low voltage isn't usually the regulator, it's almost always the alternator. A bad diode can also cause low voltage, making the light come on at low speeds.

Well hello again, seems like the induction is good, vacuum advance is good everythings good alt light......regulator maybe,,,,,,,hmm get the voltmeter out,,,,,,see how many volts you're getting with the motor off , then start up the car and see how many volts there is...if its below 13 its not enough charge.... but if its above 13 volts its charging,,, if its over 15 then the battery is overcharging and shortens the life of the battery dramatically. Theres the theory anyways....and its normal on a lot of cars to give the engine a rev to get rid of the alt light.....its to kick the regulator on by increasing the voltage (revs). Voltage regulators don't usually work when its below 13 volts,,,,when it gets between 13 and say 16 volts then the regulator works and turns off the alt light. Anyways I know I talk to much, but heres the theory anyway. Oh and if the battery is below 12 volts....then you need to get a new battery. lol

i reckon you cant go wrong with an EA falcon alternator if you can get one cheap, they are easy to mount, you dont have to change anything except maybe the length of the fan belt and you can take out the regulator, you then have 75-85amps recharging which is heaps my car will idle or drive with the cutoff switch turned off which means the battery is isolated from the system, thats power!!!, probably not safe though cause it means my cutoff switch is useless if the motors running in the case of an accident.