Thanks for the update. Yes, it can be at TDC but be 180 degrees out. Turn the crank one full turn to TDC again, and the distributor - which turns at half-rotation - will point to #1 plug. Either rearrange the plug wires or remove/reinsert the distributor so #1 is pointing to the front.




If it's 180 out, swap 1&4 and 2&3 leads.

I will bring closure to this thread.

Turns out the Dizzy was sending a great spark, just not at the right time....

I had been careful to make sure it was sitting correctly at TDC but had never put a timing light on the motor whilst cranking. The timing light showed the Dizzy was firing way off the mark even though it was set correctly.

The fix was the $99 Ebay Dizzy Chinese special that has seemed to work fine for the last 2 weeks or so. It has highlighted another problem but that deserves it's own thread.

Once again, thanks for the input people. Maybe this thread will help someone else out in the future....

So far;

I've replaced the Coil, Ignition Module and Ignition barrel which means I now have Spark @ plugs and 10.5v @ coil whilst cranking. Spark is still orange with a screwdriver in the coil lead earthed to strut bolt but now jumps a gap close to an inch (and it claimed a second victim today zapping a mate holding the dizzy cap hahaha).

I spoke to my Auto Sparky today and he said a voltage drop to 10.5v cranking was normal so no concerns there.

Compression is not an issue.

Placed my hand over the carby to choke it whilst turning over and got plenty of fuel so no probs with fuel supply.

Rechecked timing with a light and whilst cranking by hand had it sitting around 9 degrees (nowhere near enough I know but the motor should definitely fire).


That's the four bases covered and still I have a car that won't start.

I'd say it's about time I seek professional help though I'm reluctant to take it to the Auto Sparky's shop as he already has another of my projects sitting in the corner and I shouldn't distract him.......

Quote:Yes, under no load. When the cylinder is under pressure, a weak spark won't cut it.

So a quick check with the multimeter showed 12v @ coil with key on and 7.5v cranking. Checked the key and 12v main being fed but 7.5v at start terminal.

Great, new ignition barrel. Zipped over to the other B110 and pulled the other one out. Turned out to be fairly simple to do.

Back over to the problem B110, put the barrel in , wired it back up (changing a terminal that wasn't 100%) and .................... ................ ............bloody nothing bloody bloody.

Check with the multimeter shows 10.5v @ coil when cranking. Screwdriver in Coil lead has spark now jumping over 20mm to the strut bolt earth before it suddenly zapped the crap out of my hand. Spark seemed strong by touch . Still orange though. Pulled out No.2 plug and checked spark, a nice strong bluish.

Ignition barrel also showing 10.5v @ start position.

Incidentally, the 2 small black wired going to the dizzy from the module showed 1.2v with key on and around 1.3-1.5 with motor cranking whilst the 2 connected to the coil showed around 12v. I have no idea if this is normal or not...

All the info I have says Orange spark is weak but would it be able to jump a gap almost 15mm? Unless it loses it's strength in cylinder pressure...

I'll get in the shed with the Multimeter later when it cools down a bit, but which resister do you mean, rg? It already had EI when I bought the car and the ballast resistor had been removed.

Thanks for the input fellas.

I have a spare ignition barrel on the other B110 but it is the steering lock type so a pain to remove. The ignition switch seems the next likely place to check, though I'd like to be sure before I pull the other one out....

Something else to check is the ignition switch, if the internal contacts are worn too much, it could cause you to get low or no voltage. Use a volt meter and check voltage in both the crank position and the run position, both should read 12 volts at the switch, and at the coil during crank, and at the resistor in the run position.

Orange spark is a sign of weak spark it should be blue,If the spark is weal like that you can find that in the engine under compression it is actually too weak to fire the plugs.

I would seriously hook up a multimeter and make sure that there is 12 volts everywhere it is needed, It sounds like it is only getting the 7 volt ballast feed and it likely needs 12 volts not 7 volts.

The Original setup with points ran a special coil at 7 volts when running and when starting the start circuit supplied 12 volts to boost the spark for start duties then when the Ignition switch was turned back to the run position it supplied 7 volts, So there should be a 12 volt supply when cranking and a 7 volt supply for the run position of the ignition switch.

I think that aside from the earth on the ignition module on the side of that Bosch Distributor which is vital as even getting the module damp can kill spark the problem will likely be voltage feed related, Remember 12 volts when cranking and 7 volts with ignition in the on position at the Coil and the Module uses the same coil fed voltage the points did.

Would this be to burn the car to the ground?

Hmmm............Interesting..........

If I had a plane ticket I'd be right over!

Have you tried ether spray?