Yes it is.

The Toyota box and 4.30 rear end will help a lot and the fact that you don't have to daily drive it. You end up with the idle a little high and it will still be lumpy but that is part of the lure isn't it.

Tom

Yes Tom, It's a 300 degrees of duration. I will be using a 5 speed celica transmission with a toyota LSD 430 rear end, disc brakes. I also have 2 45's webers on a cannon intake, and a head built for racing.It's a nice set up. I won't be racing my car. I only use my car for car shows due that my tags are antique. I just like the sound of it. This entire set up was on a suzuki samurai that was built for mud racing. I just purchased it when the jeep was wrecked.I'm just doing a rebuild on it and detailing it. My car right now is all original with 68k miles on it and still with the 1971 spark plug wires on it. I'm just bored driving a stock Datsun... I also have a fuel injection intake with a throttle body that was also part of the deal made for the same engine. But I do understand what you are saying. But no worries here, car is just for car shows and no racing. Maybe one day I will decide to drop a SR20DET in it and tub the car.
Thanks Tom for the info.

Er....possible wet blanket but; when you say 300 American Racing cam, is that 300 as in 300 degrees of duration? If so and if it's going in a street car this will be a unhappy mix. Nothing below 4500 rpms and without some kind of close ratio gearbox the car will constantly be falling of the cam every time you up shift. For the road I wouldn't go beyond 275-280 duration and more than 420 lift, this will be tolerable with the stock boxes that drop 3000 rpms between 2nd & 3rd.

Tom

Will do. Thanks DD !

Oh, remember that changing pistons will require the engine to be re-balanced.

Oh, remember that swapping pistons will require the engine to be re-balanced.

Thank you all for the info. Now I can get the block going. I also got the valve calibration for my 300 American Racing cam.Later I will post a pic of a head block that I bought that has celica valves, big ports, shaved, double springs etc, etc even though I have a concern with some spacers that are under the valve trane to raise it up. Never seen that before, but pics coming soon. Thanks again

This topic explains what I thought were oddball parts, tech wiki shows a different part number for the A13 rod, I had a box full of rods some of which were 133mm and some of those had smaller pin diameter but I can't remember if they were indeed 17.5 but after reading this they would have to be. The taller block requires the 133mm rod but the A12/A13 piston would require a 17.5mm pin so that explains what I thought were odd ball rods.

Tom

Quote: Yes, Nissan Competition sold the same flattop piston for use in A12 or in 1974 A13 engine.

12010-H2361 73MM/2.874" PISTON
[This is the factory stock GX piston]

Both A12 and 1974 A13 are 73 mm diameter, pin height 32.5 mm, pin diameter 17.45 mm. The A13 rod differs from the A14 rod.

The part numbers are not the same for A12 and 1974 A13 piston. I would guess the dish on the A13 piston is larger, so as to keep the same compression ratio. So using the 1971 A12 piston may bump up the compression to 9.5:1 and using the 1972-1973 A12 piston to 9.0:1. Still good for regular gasoline.