Check the hose between the inlet manifold & the booster isn't leaking, or that the head gasket isn't blown. It could be a lack of vaccum more than anything. The clicking could be a ball joint or tie rod end that's worn. As the suspension is compressed, it can move, then it clicks when it returns to normal. I've had worn ball joints make a similar sound.

Hmm, the clicking i cant really explain other that then when i stop heavily, the moment the vehicle is stationary and the suspension starts to reset back to even. there's a click from the master cylinder/booster area, however the more and more i've been driving it the brakes have been getting better.

Maybe i'm just expecting them to work better due to the weight of the car.

only concerned that it cant lockup the stock wheels (4.5" wide on 12" rim).

Yes, the pedal should be "hard", instead of soft/mushy. However it should not require unusual pedal effort (leg muscle) to slow the car. That said the brakes of a 1976 car are not up to modern standards, and the Datsun brakes are not able to lock up wide tires on dry pavement.

The booster is good if it:
* boosts the pedal effort
* doesn't leak (causing uneven engine idling)
* doesn't "grab" the brakes violently
Never heard of a booster causing 'click' sounds. I'd look at the brake pad movement (including wheel bearing adjustment and caliper sliding surfaces).


Quote:The most popular upgrade is to S13 Silvia 250 mm brake rotors. See S13 Brakes.

Recently bought a non-roadworthy 120y sedan for a project car.

I would consider the brakes to be sub-par at best, Bled fluid front/back the day i recieved it, the fronts had what appeared to be rusted fluid in them (was brown). Did a complete flush until fluid was clear and air free.

The Pedal is considerably hard to push. However that's comparing it to my 80 series landcruiser, so its probably not much help. But putting all my force on the pedal isnt enough to cause the wheels to lock up. I wouldnt consider them to be unsafe, but the car doesnt stop as fast as i'd like it to.

Another thing probably worth mentioning, that for the first couple of drives i took it on after i replaced the fluid, whenever i'd slam the brakes on to a halt, after the vehicle stopped the brake booster (or master cylinder, not sure) would make a loud click which was also able to be felt through the brake pedal, This stopped happening after the fluid was replaced.

Im thinking the booster is on its way out, but im really not how to diagnose what is the cause. I'm hoping to not have to replace everything.

Going to replace the pads this week just to make sure it's not and adjustment issue, but other then that, any suggestions as to where i should start looking.

Thanks in advanced