ripped off again in Thailand :)

OK, even though I eventually went for Mazda UC pistons at 77mm i thought i would post up my machine shop costs..
Had them translated today as i cant read Thai..

polish crank - 300 baht
bore 4 cyl bores to 77mm - 800 baht
open out small ends to fit Mazda pin - 600 baht
machine 1mm from top face of pistons - 400 baht
assembly of 4 pistons with rods and pins - 600 baht

total 2700 baht = approx 75 USD or 104 AUD

Pistons and rings were about the same price over again

In corolla K series circles they are lucky to have a 1.9 litre K series from the 99 liteace locally in Aus and maybe other models in japan.
The ports and valves on 7k (1.9L) heads are no bigger than some hot 3k early models yet still smaller in valve sizes compared to what we can get for A series. Even when maxed in racing applications K series chambers have the valves very close together and are tiny from the start yet the 1900cc capacity makes a very nice punchy engine with very fat midrange and some with 38mm inlets and 32 exhausts have beaten 1600cc 4age engines in other similar beefed up corollas.
Although max power is always the same, the same cant be said for the torque of a bigger capacity engine, thats where they shine and make spirited driving very pleasant.

You are right on about the larger diameter pistons. High compression is worth 2 HP at top RPM, while larger pistons are worth 5-10 HP at low RPM.

H75 head is slightly higher compression than GX head, but H75 were used with dished pistons (so the resulting compression ratio is lower). And they still rev well to 6000 rpm, although higher compression means the engine accelerates (revs) better still.

A14 stock dont rev well with the slightly heavier pistons and lower comp H75 heads but not sure on your head or comp, cam etc.

go the 81mm and never look back cheap enough in Thailand for those mods
and you will have a stump puller in all gear with that weight!

Hi D,
It was an isuzu Dmax 2.5 diesel Turbo....
i have one myself, theyre no slouches....

We both turned left together off a main road into a two laner which then went to single lane... i was on the outside.. i think they got the jump on me
My car has a std A14 at the moment.

I think with the spec outlined above, i should have a nice motor... also, my car only weighs 450kg.....

i got the Camtech 621 cam after some discussion with them, at first they recommended a milder grind but when i said it would go onto an A15 or maybe A16 they said it would be ok to for the 621 as the idle would be better than with an A12

did you lose to the diesel isuzu with the mini engine? even a peppy A13 with good induction, comp, pipes and mild cam will scream more than most women out of control. Capacity even with a max flowing A15 head with the right cam will make sure you have drive-ability than just peak and nothing below.

I had a 1608cc highly cammed A15 that was way more enjoyable with detuned gx style grind, high comp and alot of other go fast bits and mods. The thing would punch hard in any gear as opposed to race cammed pig of a thing. Capacity allows you to run more aggressive cams but at more enjoyable rpm for a daily. Also help with top speed as torque is fatter lower for more of the mid range as well

Yes understand.
After the carb has been replaced with the twin hitachi's the cyl head becomes the bottleneck and increasing engine capacity will only move the peak torque/power further to the left due to the maximum gas flow being reached at a lower RPM.

The camtech 621 spec says:

Fair idle, good bottom end
and mid range power designed for engines with limited modifications. Min 9:1 comp ratio.
RPM RANGE 2600-6800

So if i end up just using the A15 parts or going to the A16 then i should still be getting a nice streetable engine with power for overtaking?
I tried a top speed test a few weeks ago, the fastest i could get was 146kmh (frogeyes are not very aerodynamic) but i found it faster in 4th gear , putting it in 5th lowered the revs to the point where there wasnt enough power to continue accelerating.

Also last weekend i got out dragged by an isuzu diesel pickup... very embarrassing..

I should be able to get on this in about 2 weeks time, once built and run in i can get it on the dyno and compare with my current engines figures....

Edit: another question for you more experianced guys... will it be nescessary to degree the cam ? or just use the standard set-up ?

Unfortunately a 1690 cc engine will make about the same peak power as an A14 with the same cylinder head. To make more power it will either need a higher flowing head, or to rev higher (different camshaft, intake & exhaust).

But it will make considerably more low-rpm HP (torque).

* 90HP: A14 with Camtech 621, H89 head, and Hitachi Twin Carbs, should make peak HP at 6800 rpm
* 90HP: A17 with Camtech 621, H89 head, and Hitachi Twin Carbs, perhaps will make peak HP from 6000 rpm.

Rear-wheel HP will be lower than the engine dyno figures estimated above.

grout filling has no cooling issues as the top of the bores pistons is where all the heat is. Tk from PForums an experienced well known builder fills most of the high HP holden v8s he builds with over 500hp for the street and track and mostly all have cast iron heads with no cooling issues.

81mm is a breeze for the engine shop for an A14 with A15 crank rods and vw slugs. The cement filling is not really cement but a 2 pack polymer that matches the cast iron properties for heat dissipation and other factors.