shane pickett has that incredible A series turbo with nothing spared, it was on a thread somewhere with some pics of the engine.

I will say the issue are boxes, all getting thin in the tooth unless you have a good t50
the nissan stuff is just too weak as stated by many.

just as an option or suggestion you could sell all your A series stuff and make a good profit
and put it towards L series twin cam 16v goodness.

There are plenty of L series with ka24de heads these days getting around in datsun 1600s
making around 160-280+hp all in NA trim with a few turbo ka24e 12v heads as well.

L16 sleeved block for 89mm Ka pistons 500-600
Wiseco pistons $590usd or mod some cheap factory
mazda skyactiv or MZR L5 89mm pistons
KA24DE head $50
(use as is they make 180-190hp with bolt ons eg. 240sx in the USA)
Z series bottom timing case cover
shortened KA chain
18RG toyota crank sprocket
Part Number: 223-593
UPC: 53059620385
Inside Diameter (In): 1.298 Inch
Number Of Teeth: 18

Bike carbs r1 41mm
RWD timing case and dizzie setup
RWD inlet manifold chopped for bike carbs
bluey elec dizzie

if you want more than 160hp Brian Crower has
many goodies also exceed manufacturing has many
manifolds and other goodies.

KA24de is factory 150hp ate on the 240sx
L16 or L18 (l18 crank) and 89mm bores will have
400cc less so would make 150hp at higher rpm
Get the inlet camshaft reground locally done
with some headers should be able to get 160hp
as will also have higher compression if you
run longer rods to suit the ka24de pistons.
41mm R1 bike carbs on rwd inlet manifold from
the US also front dizzie timing cover and
sprocket to suit bluebird dizzie and you should
be able to have it all for around 2kaud.
With boxes you can abuse without a thought.
Baz did the 89mm c dry sleeve to the L series
blocks and Americans go up to 90 even 91.2 using
mitsubishi factory pistons. I would go for
90mm since you are sleeving and Wisecos off ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Piston ... :9S0AAOSwuMFUjazH&vxp=mtr

Head gasket are avail from Les or can mod
your own ka24de factory one.

No pollution gear bonus like A series and
close to the LZ engine but much cheaper.

this is the 270+hp one all NA owned by Lampy
https://s14-eu5.ixquick.com/cgi-bin/se ... 8832317742df04f3af5e64959

ozdat info thread on the ka24de L series conversions
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... b+head+conversion#p255201

And I have the correct new regulator purchased from turbo gemini that was never installed.
Give me a call if you want it....I ended up doing an injected version instead
Cheers Rob 0413 435068

It gets even simpler: Carburetors do not require a fuel return line

Fuel pressure must be regulated to 3 psi above boost. So in addition to your 18 psi pump a Regulator will need needed like the inexpensive Malpassi rising-rate unit

Too Easy that was my thought process, ill just use one of the nice little compact Holley Mighty Mite Fuel pumps with the higher output one around 15-20psi will do the job perfect and return to normal tank is nice and simple also :)

For running a carburetor, a surge tank is overkill as carburetor has a built-in surge tank (the fuel bowl). With no external surge tank, a lift pump is unnecessary

The Weber-recommended 3 psi fuel pressure is for naturally aspirated
* With SUCK THROUGH no mods to fuel pressure are needed
* When running BLOW THROUGH you'll need 3 psi above boost. In other words, a variable fuel pressure. It won't flood as there will still be only 3 psi pressure difference across the fuel inlet valve, for example 10 psi air pressure in the fuel bowl and 13 psi in the fuel line

For a turbo setup with a 32/36 is running a couple bosch 70 fuel pumps over kill in the following configuration;

one as lift pump into surge tank and one in line to fuel filter and fuel reg and then return to surge tank at say (-6 AN) 3/8 fuel lines? being its carby and a fuel bowl of the carb will most likely flood over at above 7psi and the 70 fuel pumps are around a 40psi pump into the raising rate fuel reg not sure if can get the fuel rate to drop to around the 7-8psi of the weber then raise the 5-10psi needed for boost

yeah I'm more leaning towards turbo, a really over the hill naturally aspirated for some spirited street drives and cruises really isn't a suitable option the engine would be made to rev and be driven hard its really not made to just be a slow old slug around town until you really get into the top end of the driving experience where 90% of driving isn't done unless on the track.

The 160hp a12 that Simon did years ago for the A12 is a good goal but id be happy to back it off keep it more reliable and save and the 120-130hp turbo is a reasonable and more than doable power range especially for the A15 that way I'm not going stupid and breaking diff's and gearboxes its just a good fun medium, but then the issue of loving boost comes in and put in a tee piece and go silly for more power haha

I always wanted the naturally aspirated Twin weber and now that I have built it mild its really not that so over the top its good fun but when your reving the guts out of it and just don't seem to be going no where and a Suzuki swift drives past you it really dampens the mood. I know its not ment to be some rocket and I never wanted it to be at all I love the classic and old mechanical style and simplicity yet I just seek abit more fun under the foot.

I have both. Although my naturally aspirated engine is not built to the hill like you are planning. My two cents is go turbo you get your most bang for your buck. If you want to go the traditional route and keep it naturally aspirated but you're going to spend a fortune doing it.

120hp naturally aspirated sounds do-able. Just add new rod bolts since you'll be making twice the HP at high revs

But your turbo goals are low. Without all that work, a stock block/stock head will make 160hp turbo (see 160hp A12)

270 ATW on an A-series?

please elaborate on this build as sounds wild..

Sorry mate as much as id love to sell off and help everyone own all the H89 heads its just not something i can really part with i do have a h75 id part with but yeah no one really that keen on a h75 haha