weel the source was that the dizzy had a bad earth so was farked.
I use the half blend cause i couldnt aford the lead replacement additive stuff. Not that crappy orange syringe stuff but the lucas lead replacement additive.
Well its runn great for 3 days now, but my computer is now "intermittant" so having problems with zone alarm going crazy and shutting the net down for me. My fists are sore.

It's not the source of your problem unfamilia but you need to ditch the LRP - your motor will run better on high octane unleaded and your valve seats will be fine. LRP is evil.

I'll take you up on that...

would have to have a look at one and see to see what the go is if u get one i dont mind checkin it out for futre referance

I was about to say : "that sounds like what happened to me!"
YEah acutally. The distributor Fecked up a second time after that too about a year ago and I replaced it again. Seems ok now though...

This thing with a E15 dizzy. What do I need to do to get one of those running in my car?

sounds like a problem i had years ago with a 1200 spent a day ####in with every thing and countless test drives and onbe with a fellow mechanic couldent sort it replaced points condensor plugs leads ect ect and it run great. till the owner took it for a drive hahaha and then apon closer inspection the dizzy was ####in cactus bushes warn and was shorting out and opening the points and closeing all over the shop . pull your dizzy out and have a good look i replaced the points/condensor with the dizzy in so i diddent pick up the problem hahaha lobster u should remember that session as it was your car

its the hitachi and im running half a tank of 98 octane unleaded and half lead replacement. It only happens after heavey throttle.
I replaced the condensor and plugs again today, and checked the fuel float, its exactly on the dot in the window. This things got me buggered.
I might have to upgrade to the 32/36 carb. Or drive to adelaide to pick up that a15.. mmm. Just wish i had $$$ cos insurance was due last week.

Either your timing is out, or your fuel is wrong..caused by a high float level. This can be the result of excessive fuel pressure, or a sticky needle and seat.

Check your float level..depends on the carby you are running..

Try another carby. and if you run an electrc fuel pump, turn down the pressure with the regulator that you ought to have. Does the break down occur all of the time..at idle..or after high revs..or after heavy accellerating constantly (accel. pump jets)?

Chris

umm, not so ggod news, took it for a longer drive toninght and bang, bang bang, back fires back!
My only reasoning is that i did not adjust the points/timing/spark gaps to the new power coming through the coil. So it was tunned for optimum under a crappy set up, and now the set ups fixed, its set up wrong. any other ideas? Its after changing gears now, so im guessing its too much fuel as the back fire is at different parts along the exhaust. Scary when under the drivers seat area. BANG!

okay fixed this morning with the free help of my neighbourhood auto elec across the street.
He measured the drop of amps from the alt to the resistor/coil etc. The 25 amp alt was only pumping out 20 with the lights off and 11 with the lights on. The resistor was burnt out from this causing another voltage drop and the coil was past it.
So replaced the coil and resistor with spares i had in the shed. Better with lights off and on but still loss of amps from alt. Ended up replacing alternator for $100 with a 55amp one. Now its all good.
Plus my demister switch works again. yay