You won't need new head bolts unless 1) the ones you have are visibly damaged or 2) you are running boost and want to torque them higher than stock. The ARP studs will let you go higher.

Running a cleaner tap though the bolt holes is a good idea. I made a homemade one from a spare head bolt, I just filed a slot along one side. Take a look at the article Changing Head Gaskets.

Thanks for the tips, I was a little concerned, but, at the same time, common sense told me rinsing would get that gunk away.Always double checking, I do not care if I sound beginner(Iam a home made hobby mechanic), which I am, the stupid thing would be not to ask, pretending I am oK,I have no problem asking for advise.
I am thinking about getting new head bolts, would that be good?, also , before using them, clean and retread the head bolt housings with a threader tool,no more blown head gaskets.

Jaime_____________________________

rgrinder's method sounds good to me. I would change the oil twice as he says.

Normally when changing a head gasket this is not necessary. But if there is water in the oil ... or oil in the water ... then special steps like this need to be taken.

first, drain the coolant. then replace the bad head gasket. once the engine is reassembled, drain the oil pan. this will get most of the junk out. refill with new oil and change the filter. fill cooling system with water then start the engine and allow it to warm up with the radiator cap off. when the engine is at normal operating temp., turn it off and adjust the valves. add a cooling system cleaner to the radiator, set heat lever to the hot setting, then restart and allow to run for the time specified on the cleaner container. once it has run for the required time, turn off again and drain the cooling system. refill again and run for about 5 minutes and then drain again. this should get the junk out of your cooling system, then refil with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. once that is done, change the oil and filter a second time and you should be good to go.

the H72 head casting number means that it's a standard A14 head, the GX head for an A14 should be a H57 casting number and will have small water holes under the intake ports.

I have a question about changing cylinder head gaskets. I read several good advice documents on how to do it, but I never see anything about how to clean the mess in the engine, will an engine rinse with new oil, probably 2 oil changes close to each other after re assembly will be fine? What about , before disassembly, a rinse with those engine cleaners(in a can, one can and 5 min at iddle, then rinse off oil)...work fine? Should I take the oil pan off and clean it or will a couple oil changes will take care of all that after reassembly?. The radiator and block will be flushed at a shop with pressured hot water and other radiator shop chemicals they might use(upon reassembly, will drive car to radiator shop.).
I've noticed some surface rust inside the valve cover and the pushrod adjusters, clean up will be enough provided it gets clean or should new adjusters be used. I have these questions because I never changed a head gasket for the reason of water leak, never saw what I saw today. I noted , on piston #4 (gasket/piston ring on gasket, facing the back of the cyl head, towards the heater outlet)... that the gasket was knicked, I think that was the culprit, the gasket just rotted right there , perhaps whoever torqued it before it was my car, overtorqued it at the end. Last, my head says H72, seems like an oval ported head,what is the difference between a H72 GX and a H72 low compression?
Cheers.

Jaime.
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