not an expert on corolla models, but having a closer look my diff came from a KE55 coupe. But I've never seem a Jap diff under any of this model Corolla I looked at in wreckers when searching for available ratios - every single one I saw had the BW. The autos have the lower ratio diffs, and there's a tin tag with the ratio stamped in it.

Talking about corolla stuff. Well the KE30 does have bigger drums than dat 1200. But make sure its a borg Warner diff. You can tell this by the axle housing. If the diff drops out forward with the yopke its a jap diff, avoid. If the axle is a Borg Warner the diff will it'll drop out the back though an inspection plate. Additioanlly the KE55 corolla hasd a bit bigger drums again too. I'll post a photo of a borg diff when I find one.

yeah, keep all that stuff, not a bad starting point. it sounds like fun. and it will probably make you a smoother driver, as you'll have to really focus on smooth lines and good exit speeds to get better times - probably not a bad way to start at all. Then when the CA car is up and running just do the same thing, only at warp-speed !

gemini coils are another option - cut down, but keep all the tapered wire (variable rate) end on the spring with the A series engine.

depending on the balance of the car once you get out on the track, you might want to adapt a standard KE30 corolla coupe rear sway bar as well if it's a little understeery with the much stiffer front end.

all cheap things you can pick up from the wreckers, so that you still have money left for the real project car.

another cheap (free) upgrade is to shim up the star gears in the diff centre, which will effectively make it act a little more like a slippery, and doesn't create the turn-in understeer that lockers do. no doubt it increases wear too, but it won't actually be doing many miles if it's not registered.

oh, and cheap diff upgrades in 4.1 or 4.3 ratios (or 3.89 if you want the same ratio) can be had out of those early corollas too, using 120Y tailshaft and yoke. The diff housings are 3" wider, which increases rear track to match the front with the Stanza struts - so you can use the same offset wheels front and rear. They have huge drum brakes too, which work alot better than the piddly little 1200 drums.

and you'll almost definitely have overheating probs on the track with the standard rad, so fit a 120Y one or something. I had a friend who mounted (with zip-ties of course) the heater core in the cut-out on the drivers side (RHD) of the radiator support panel to fix that problem - that usually had people scrathing their heads mistaking it for an oil cooler before twigging to the heater hoses running to it...

Thanks for the advise fellas..

Yep it should keep me occupied while the projects slowly progressing...

It won't be regoed which is a good thing i guess.

I already have a lancer booster and stanza struts and lowering blocks, extractors and 180 holley from the project shell "FLYBY2 as YRL05S called it", so i am guessing i should keep most of that?

I guessing i am looking into a sway bar, shocks, pads and tyres to get me started and then the motor?

how bout this for cheap front brakes.australian made 120y's have larger front discs,& the caliper is the same as a mitsubishi sigma,& they bolt to the 1200 steering arms,so they are a real bolt in.they're big enough to handle anything up to a quick a14,& i ran them for years in my red sedan.only became a problem when the a15 went in.they use the same spring & strut insert as the 1200,so you don't have to change inserts if you have good ones.or try filling them with motorcycle fork oil (20w/30)to get better dampening.it'll cost something like $20 at a motorcycle store.tell em it's for your harley,& drag your knuckles on the way out.only problem is you'll need 13's to clear the brakes,but there are plenty of used mags out there looking for a home,i'm sure.also,try yokohama 539's as a race tyre,it's what i use on the sunny,& they're simply amazing.

Have you still got any parts left over from FLYBY2? ie Struts, motor?

Here is what I used for my intial race set-up; 7/8 front sway bar 5/8 rear bar, 240Z springs with one coil cut out , lowerine blocks in back , Monroe gas shocks and strut inserts. Brake pad were Repco metal master. Engine was stock GX with exception of header and 2 inch exhaust. Bolt in rollcage. Total was $1800 dollars US including price of the car. Included in that was $125 for a used fuel cell and $200 for a new Halon Fire system.
I think this is about as budget as it gets.

Tom

Hi Jon,

Sounds like a bit of fun while you're building the CA. First off get it stopping properly and going around corners. This will bring your times down faster than hp initially. Stanza/180B/200B front legs and brakes will be a huge improvement as will lowering the back (even using blocks will do for a start). The budget approach can be fun - there was a guy racing at Oran this past weekend running a standard $90 CA16 in his coupe who was going respectably. Are you still keeping this road regoed?

if i was to build a racer on a budget and legalities werent much of an issue i would go for...
stanza frount struts with mitzi V3000 rear springs cut to chosen hight. keep the stanza discs and cal. maby 180b master cylinder. it you wanted to get serious 4pots of toyo hi-lux.and put on a 120y sway bar. put c20 van drums on the rear and lowering blocks and maby an extra leaf in the rear. a15 with a second hand set of 40mm sidies and a new exhaust. all this stuff except the sidies can be found at pick-a-part and if you can its not to much work to fit your self. if you have access to a dremel you could give the head a port and polish. if you striped the inside and got a good set of tires it would make a good track car.

G'day Rhys, yeah mate, gonna have a talk to him for sure, trying these guys out first though.

Been good, yourself?


CA was on the cards, but later down the track, i'd prefer a tough little a series for now in the race car and the project car can get the big hp CA