have you thought about anti tramp bars? might stop some of the movement.
Im not sure about slicks. Ive hurd if you run them theres a totally different setup involved because of the extra strain on every part of the suspention.

i guess its circuit v. rally, cause im sliding the arse round anyway, and my road driving has a bit of a drift element to it too

benny, you have a rear swaybar, how was that setup?

thanks for your replies guys,

This is what i have and what i propose to do....

1. Im currently running reversed eye leaf spring with extra leaf. (they are set just about flat).
2. Bump stops have been cut and shorterned up.
3. Koni adjustables.
4. Longer shackles on the rear to make each end of the leafs the same distance from the road surface I remember reading somewhere in a suspension tuning book that leaf springs will work better when they are parallel with the road surface.
5. 16mm sway bar.

now

what i propose to fit is a panhard rod to counter act the extra leverage, due to the longer spring shackles.
I have noticed some dents/marks on the chassis rail on the right rear made from the rear disc caliper, which suggest sideways movement of the rear axle. To add to the equation, i am also using slick tires, which produce extra grip.
The car in its current setup doesnt suffer from axle tramp.

Benny

mick,
Could it be that you were not trying hard enough?

bah, i had side to side movement of my diff on my rally car, then i got real shockers and nolethane bushes and havent noticed any side to side movement ever

A longer panhard rod means less angular change on the rod and so less side movement of the axle assembly.

To minimise sideways rod movement, one end of the rod must be just below horizontal at the rest position. The rod end should move an equal amount above horizontal at normal bump conditions. This means the rod end has the shortest side displacement for the amount of arc travelled.

pjz,
For the rod to tear the frame out of the car it must have been very short?


Quinn, I like your idea. Sounds pretty good to me. Any chance of a pic.

holden ones can be cut to lenght but why bother. for my girlfriends mk 1esky we got a piece of alloy rod cut to size and threds tapped in each end. we made a bracket to hang off the chassis and a small bolt like rod welded on one leaf bracket and fitted rose joints. no broblems and it cost us half of a speed shop one, and it looks better.

Benny, I had one 1200 racing Coupe with a Panhard rod and the leaf springs. Because ANY panhard rod swings in an arc (gets shorter both above and below it's static center line), the rod RIPPED it's frame out of the car. There was not enough side to side movement in the leaf spring mountings. If keeping leaf springs, you would probably be better off using traction bars on the front half of each spring. Peter

If you want to keep it Nissan ...have a look under the FWD Bluebirds they have some really neat adjustable top links in the arse end. They make good radius rods as well....I posted a pic of them in the photos section (suspension)

How is the frame mount done?

I'm surprised that the Datsun 1200 Competition Suspension instructions didn't recommend a panhard rod. Anybody know why?