hmm, i quickly read that and didnt see a mention of the locator pin, the block should have a bolt through the center holding it to the leafs (otherwise they are not legal), the bolt head also locates the diff

make sure you tighten this bolt a second time after you tighten the u-bolts aswell

also you can get longer u-bolts off vanettes and stuff if your a tight arse like me

When they reset leaves don't they just heat them enough to manipulate the metal then just re bend them to what specs you ask. Seems like a pretty cheep job, but mind you i payed $40 just for a guy to do one weld, and that was a welds the went roudn the circumference of my dump pipe.

Oh well.

Cheers
Damo

Have you thought about talking to a blacksmith? Worth a try.

No Worries,
Having said all that I do still agree with B110SSS.
It only cost me a couple of hundred dollars for my springs to be reset plus some decent U-Bolts etc.
But I just wanted to give the advice because most people around do seem to go with the lowering block kits. If they do it I would prefer they do it safe as possible.

Yeh b110sss, that is with me shopping aroound in townsville to!

up here its so useless to get good help espeacilly when its something speacilised. there isnt any competion here so they charge bullcap.

trying to get good help and work, is hard.

You might as well put a knife in ur leg drag it up and add abit of salt to the wound every couple of hours , thats how paniful it is to get good prices, good help and good service here

Ian ogivliy (datto speaicalist) here is good help, but he is busy and doesnt reset springs

i got this advice from BUFF (ben) off MSN. i thought everyone could benefit from the advice if they dont know anytihng about BLOCKS and can be used for documentation later for when pepole serach for the advice


Jack up the ute and support with stands under the chassis so the suspension is sagging down at full travel - ok

Have a trolley jack just resting under your diff center just for some added support to stop it moving - even just a jack of some description - its not really holding any weight just gives you a bit of play to jiggle things around in the next step

Spray some WD40 or something on your U-Bolts for your spring hangers on both sides

A trolley jack would be really good if you can borrow one though - because now you have to undo your U-bolts

Its just heaps easier to jack up the diff that extra couple of inches to make it easier to fit the lowering blocks in with out jamming your fingers or anything

Clean the bottom of the diff wear the lowering blocks mount to with a wire brush and same with the leaf spring surface

Now the lowering blocks will sit in between the leaf springs and the diff - make sure they locate properly on the dowels

once you are at this stage - get your new (longer U bolts) and sit them over the diff and through the lowering block holes and the bottom shock mount plate (it all makes sense when you are under there you will see what i mean)

Get your NEW nuts and just run them up evenly on both sides until they start to tighten everything together and then just have another look to make sure nothing has moved and everything is nice and square

Fit your bottom shock mount bolts back again - and further tighten the U bolts keeping them even (so the thread showing on each one stays the same) a couple of turns on one then the other etc etc - but don

B120Dat,
If I were you I would cancel the lowering blocks order( you need them like a hole in the head) and find a new springmaker.
$650-850 is a joke, try $150 or thereabouts

i have just ordered a set of Lowering blocks for me ute, they are built specfic for my ute with locator etc...

has anyone install blocks in thier coupe/ute? is there sumthing i should look out for when installing, any advice would be great cheers

p.s i wanted to get leafs reset but $650 -$850